it can be done for sub $200, if desired, i do not really care about that part as it is all for fun and costs less than a crate of decent wine - but, well, drivetrain with decent 4 motors - it is $24-26 per motor, ECSs are $17-15 apiece, or $60 for 4in1 unit - modern blheli32 type. old blheli_s can be found for quite less.
decent carbon fiber frame - around $100, less than decent - can be found for about of $40.
FC stack can vary - one i just got - a kakute f7 is about $50 for FC. most folks use older F4 FCs - that can be found for $25 or so.
good video transmitter is about $50 - can be found for $20 if less than good - again - i bet you get the point. r-xsr or r9mm receiver - $20. decent GPS unit is also about $35-$40. lidar i use - tfmini is $37.
all in all you get a bit of money spent on it all when it comes all together. most important part - FC needs to be on the rubber mounts - i will need to take rooster apart, it flipped on me today again as one prop was slightly bended - it was enough now to cause vibrations that did upset alt hold. it should be flyable with less than ideal props - i will need to suppress vibrations better.
Yea, what Paul said. What you see in the photo is $170. No Video hardware. I like building them and experimenting with the progress in technology. Itās like building your own PC. You get what you want but are not saving any money
Mine always get to be more expensive than Iād like to admitā¦
But I simply try not to ever add it all up
My frame, esc, FC, and motors and props are all about 160. But then my receiver, vtx and camera are about another 160. GPS ~40. Battery, ~15. Various straps, glue, wire, heatshrink, etc, maybe another 10.
Iām getting close to $400. (maybe more after shipping on all that) But, itās a 90 gram (w/out battery) HD camera auto-mision drone! Canāt buy that in the store.
Itās technically 95gā¦ I shouldnāt exaggerate or underspec things hereā¦
But yes, I think a lot of it is the motors. Iām using little 1103 7800kv motors. Itās still more power than I need! Donāt need powerful motors to lift 95g. (140-150g all up, depending on the battery)
Then every component I use is the lightest I can find. Unify pro VTX is very light. 20x20 ESC and FC. Runcam Mini Split cam, etc.
You can see it in the first post on the scale. Itās 99 grams there, but my new GPS is 4 grams lighter than that one was.
Cool, i also got 3600kv for my 3" build - and you say it has a good kick at 4s lipo? I was not sure about 3s or 4s. And 6000+kv would lock it into 3s only. Will see.
Split mini now has a version with a single board - but i am hesitant to burn an another $80 on it.
Good kick is an understatement, itās actually a handful. I tiny blip of throttle and itās launching. I just bought a new 4S 1050mah battery for it but Iām thinking about going to 3S.
Somewhat OT, but any opinions among this micro crowd of the Holybro Kopis 2 RTF racing quad? Seems like a quick way to get a zippy quad running our favorite OSS firmware. Positive reviews. https://www.getfpv.com/holybro-kopis-2-fpv-racing-drone-pnp.html.
Obviously doesnāt scratch the itch of those who find building and experimentation at least half the funā¦
It seems to have kakute f7, so you can flash both betaflught or arducopter into it, apparently. Seems like an ok build, a tad overpriced. Armattan frames all have lifetime warranty - that sort of justifies the $100 price. But, overall, it looks like an ok build. Good FC, modern esc and ok motors. As you already figured, i see most fun in building it but as a starting point it is a good kit.
Hi Wicked1,just a quick question my quad flies so well in stabilized as though the pids are spot on,when I do loiter,pos hold,circle etc I get small ossolations when it those modes,could you plese telll me what parameter to alter please,many thankās
Hi Wicked 1,I up the ins_accel_filter up to 40 and that cured it but its not holding alt as well have set it at 30 and will try again it was on 10 when I started but supper smooth now thank you so much
hi, pls define ānot holdingā - what does happen? the dead on alt hold at low altitude close to ground can only work with a lidar. baro will always have some propwash pressure on it - look at its log data - is it bumpy?
Dont no what happened with that post,the quad is driftting up and down it did not do this wnen ins_accel_filter at 10,I will continue to play with this untill I get a happy medium,also I have a lidar here to fit when ive change a couple of hardware positionās on the quad,thankās for your help
What Iāve found is that filter setting is directly related to the alt_hold/accel tuning.
The lower that filter, the lower the altitude PIDās need to be. Since you raised the filter setting, Iād imagine the PIDās are too low, so now itās not able to hold its altitude properly.
Increase the throttle accel PIDās. And if you lowered the throttle rate and alt_hold P settings, you might need to increase them as well.
On my 250 size quad w/ the accel filter at 20, Iām able to use the default PIDās for the throttle accel pidās. (I donāt remember what the default settings are, so youāll have to look that up).
On my microquad w/ the accel filter at 10, I had to lower all the throttle accel and other altitude related PIDās by more than 50% from the defaults.
- but, well, drivetrain with decent 4 motors - it is $24-26 per motor, ECSs are $17-15 apiece, or $60 for 4in1 unit - modern blheli32 type. old blheli_s can be found for quite less.
