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There is a 5" LR. Enter “5” long range" in the search box above.
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Thanks for that. 5" is nice, but 4" is the sweet spot since it’s right below the 250g weight limit. Plus it can carry goodies like GPS/compass and DJI video system, while still maintaining good performance over 30 minutes duration.
Just a suggestion. Thanks again for the response!
I have done 4" racers but not LR. Would be a nice project, I might try it. But under 250g is a stretch with all of the goodies.
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My 3" arducopter sub 250 gr (gps, compass, baro, optical flow, fpv 400mW analog) has been flying for about 3 years. With 2s Li Ion it flies almost 20 minutes. I had proposed an advanced version with DJI digital, but it is not was never approved. I also built a 5" and a 4", but with the 4" with normal frames, you need to use 3s Li ion to have a decent flight time (15 minutes 3s 21700 liion) but the weight is much higher than the 250gr (on my 4" I also have lidar and sonar rangefinder).
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A Flywoo frame and motors (their electronics are rubbish though even if you could get a stack with 1MB flash, so I would use other electonics) with a Visa Air Unit or even a O3 Air Unit will get at or under 250g with a Runcan Thumb or a Naked GoPro with a 4S 850 mah LiPo. I fly usually fly mine with a 4S 3000 mah LiIon, which makes them over 250g.
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If you want such a frame and motors I have an un-used one I could pop in the mail to you as i will be in the UK next week. It is an analog Flywoo LR4 whose stack just failed on the bench spontaneously. Replaced FC and it failed again so I think the ESC BEC is faulty. Needs a 20*20 stack. That would mean you could use the installed Runcam Ant. The VTX may be fine. Not sure. It has a working crossfire nano on it. I currently fly a DIY DJI digital version of same using iNav. I like 4 inch LR as it is quiet enough to use without disturbing people.
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That would be great! I have plenty of flight controllers and probably an ESC as well
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Do you use Crossfire? Are you analog or digital?
Yes I mostly use crossfire, I have both analog and digital setups
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Ok then. I will get it to you with the crossfire installed. I really think the Flywoo stack needs to go though and some 20*20 stack with 1mb flash needs to be found. I would not even trust the 4-in-1 ESC. Your address is the same?
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Yes same address. KakuteH7 mini is 20x20 
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Thank you Andy for this helpful blog.
I am trying to tune my chimera 7 and having trouble with center stick sensitivity on acro.
in addition, copter seem not to hold attitude very well in acro…
Can you please point me to what params i should change to improve that?
Been searching for answers for a few day now and couldn’t find anything…
Thanks
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Just read all this what a great blog may do a 5 or 7 incher for a winter project but I loves my Hexsoon 450 EDU and if I get the A* gimbal to work/perform well then will be happy chappy,you must be proud of this Andy
Center stick is controlled by ACRO_RP_EXPO, ACRO_YAW_EXPO and RC1_DZ, RC2_DZ and RC4_DZ depending on axis.
Attitude control is all down to the tune - better tune, better attitude holding
Hi everyone,
I’m facing some issues in the initial stage of configuration.
In Alt mode, the drone keeps on oscillating front and back(pitch forward/backward) and in Loiter mode it is rolling.
I have attached the equipments I used in this project, the full parameter list and the logs from the 3 test flights.
Frame Type: Chimera7 Pro V2 6S HD
Flight Controller: Mateksys H743-SLIM V3
Motors: iflight XING2 2809 Cinelifter Motor
Electronic Speed Controllers (ESCs): iflight BLITZ E55 4-IN-1 ESC
Propellers: Gemfan LR 7035 2-Blade Propeller – 5mm
Battery: CNHL Voltage 14.8V 4S Lipo Batteries
Radio Transmitter: Radiomaster tx16s transmitter
Receiver: Radiomaster RP3 ExpressLRS 2.4ghz Nano Receiver
GPS Module: Mateksys GNSS & COMPASS M10Q-5883
Parameters List:
Logs:
Thanks,
Nithishkumar
Looks like a tuning problem. Did you follow the tuning guide? Tuning Process Instructions — Copter documentation
You don’t have ESC telemetry - going to be hard to get a great tune without that
For my first test flight, I didn’t follow the Tunning documentation properly. I reverted everything and made some basic changes for loiter and altitude mode, and the test flight was successful. Now I’m working on making those tuning changes. And also planning to replace my current ESC with the T-motor F55A PROⅡ•F3 6S 4IN1 esc.
I’m stuck in the current calibration phase. can you please help me build the xt60 connector wires for current calibration, I’m facing an issue in connecting the banana cable to the multimeter. Can you please share a clear picture of your current calibration setup and name the components.
I have attached a picture from your video for reference.
Thanks,
Nithishkumar
One of the cables is a passthrough - it should go straight from the battery to the copter, the other goes via the multimeter