No idea, but I was thinking about this - another option would be to connect a bluetooth module, you could then view real time the vibration and anything else available over mavlink.
ESC telemetry works with that combination of ESC and FC. I had it working fine on a now destroyed quad.
Hi all,
after filling the quad with rubber and foam, I no longer have a rocket ceiling and a decent alt hold. The problem now is that I donāt finish autotune (roll axis only) with a battery (useful flight time 4.30 minutes). How can I do?
The normal autotune is for large quads with 15 minutes of flight, but the little ones that have 4/5 minutes of flight?
Thanks!!
I think you can keep going and autotune will continue where it left off? @Leonardthall would be able to advise.
Unfortunately I donāt think ā¦ He started autotune with small twitches, after a few minutes big twitchs like he usually does when the copter is at the end of the tunning process. I put the second battery but started again with small twitchs
It seems strange to me that autotune for roll axis only doesnāt complete in 4:30 min. From my autotune experiences I never seen more then (near) 2 min to complete for one axis.
I was thinking that my autotune starts from:
AUTOTUNE_MIN_D, 0.00016
my current D is:
ATC_RAT_RLL_D, 001
Perhaps this is why it takes a long time? they are values āātoo far away
With FW 4.0 when the FC completes autotune does the buzzer emit a musical tone?
Yes it does. I donāt think having low D is bad - quite the opposite. I doubt this is why it takes so long, but @Leonardthall would not be able to tell you without a log 
I ordered a FC nano V6 which should have a flash memory. Obviously the 4.30 minutes of flight are not all for autotune but also include corrections on quadcopter drift. When the sticks are in the center, however, autotune starts again
Flash is definitely working on the nanov6.
I sometimes donāt complete autotuning one axis is 5 minutesā¦ I do it in a tight space between some trees, and have to give it frequent corrections on windy days.
Make sure your copter hovers level and stays mostly in one place before you begin, so you arenāt constantly having to correct for an unbalanced copter. I made that mistake before too. I use the āsave trimā function on a spare channel on my rc controller.
I just received the kakute f7 miniā¦ Nice board! Seems lighter than the nanov6, but I havenāt weighed them yet. The security seal on its box was opened, and the board not fully in its foamā¦ Hopefully that was customs, and not a returned item! Although nothing was soldered, so canāt imagine anything is wrong w/ it.
I really shouldnāt build it until next year, due to work and everything else this winterā¦ But Iāll likely get started sooner.
I got out my old blheli_s copter yesterday and put Andyās FFT driven notch on itā¦ Working great!
do you get arducopter working on it ?
after reading a lot in this topic i started to buy a new one too.
then i started first to flash inav to get some feeling and motor 4 on esc does not work.
i wrote to airbot support and they told me that on the actual versions of this FC they changed silently the motor 4 pin to B05 resource.
in inav you can not remap resources like in betaflight, so this FC will no longer work with inav !
im now afraid i have the same problem wen i start to flash arducopter.
as i spend some hours to find out what is going on, i would love to hear from you if you can get arducopter working on this fc.
im new to arducopter, searching actual google if i can remap resouces.
for the case that the arducpoter was compiled for the old version of this FC and i again can not use motor 4.
If something is changed on HW relative to pwm out it will suffice to change here and rebuild.
Thanks a lot anbello!
From what i see there is the right Motor 4 Pin at B05, that should worked.
Im not familiar with compiling the firmware and im afraid i can make a misstake, my copter crashed from the sky and hurt people.
But as i see, i do not need to recompile and YEAH i can start building my first mini gps copter.
I had much fun with a mini pixhawk on my phantom2 clone.
Thank you very much!
Hi Alberto_Ds,
Are you using this process to set up your quad before doing autotune?
http://ardupilot.org/copter/docs/tuning-process-instructions.html
You may be a long way from your correct tuning values.
You may also be able to plug in USB power to your aircraft while changing your battery and continue autotune. But if you power down you will definatly restart.
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Hi Leonard,
thanks for your interest 
Yes I used the indicated tunning process, but I didnāt have much success and not having the possibility to have a log with my FC I went to trial and error. I did not understand if the problems depend on the vibrations for the very small frame (2 "props frame 95mm). If you want I can posting the actual param file.
However, I got a copter that flies quite decently even in alt hold.
Great idea to use a power bank during the battery change!
Even if disarmed the copter keeps the autotune process with USB connected? Great, I will try as soon as possible ā¦ in this way I would have about 9 minutes of flight time useful for autotune
EDIT:
I changed the battery with a power bank inserted in the FCās USB, but it doesnāt work. Autotune starts again
add last param file
abbassati D aumentato P.param (19.4 KB)
If you need more flytime for autotune, why not use 2x 18650 Batterys ?
If you use 3 Inch Props like Gemfan 3020 you can get with ease 25-30 min flytime.
Or try a bigger Lipo, at your size of 95mm i think you use actual a 450mAh Lipo.
I made some custom 2s Lipo from very old Turnigy 1s 750mAh and get around 11min Flytime.
Must be more if you just hower and autotune. Weight of the custome 2s 750mAh is only 40gr.
Same weight as a BetaFPV 600mAh 2s Lipo.
Im building a 3inch 2s Copter actual, 3d print some testframes and modify ESC to fly down to 5v Battery. To use 16850 Batterys. All works fine for now and i started to use another Firmware then Betaflight. At the Weekend im in hope to get some tests ith arducopter
I will also try the 18650, thanks!
How did you change ESC for 18650?
Whatās this modification?
I suppose in some cases the issue is the 5v regulator on the board is only a buck regulator and needs almost 6v to runā¦ So, do you change the voltage reg? Use a separate 5v boost/buck reg?
AIrBot told me the issue w/ the Ori32 (which is the worst Iāve tried as far as voltage cut-off, at almost 7v) is that the fets they used have an internal lv which they canāt work around.
But, most of the other boards Iāve tried do seem to fail right at the point a 5v reg would lose regulation.
16850 Batterys your right, i correct my typo :o
Thanks!
and to Alberto_Ds:
i make soon a Video for my Youtube Channel how to mod ESC to use with 18650 Batterys.
I use same way as the nice chinese Guy you posted here and link to his Youtube longfly Video.
Before i used the KingKong/Ldarc 2-3s 12A ESC from Flytower/Flyegg/ET115.
That one can be used without modify down to 5V without Problems.
But KingKong/Ldarc changed production last Year, now this one is shipped as new Model 2-4s 12A.
But all Seller (even Ldarc) show old and wrong Product Image of the 2-3s ESC.
I wrote some Mails with Ldarc Support and they give me some nice Info about the new ESC and i got it moded to 5V now.
(FD6288Q Fetās minimum power supply voltage is about 4.6V on new 2-4S ESC)
A 20A Hakrc ESC 2-4s i modded too, goes down to 4.6V now.
I will show in the Video how to do it, im a bit out of Time for doing all i want actual.
But i will post here wen im finish uploading
Im done with Airbot!
Have the same ESC like you, sold as 2-4S and was shocked wen my 2s Copter fall of the Sky on 6.9V.
Now the Problem with the FC (Airbot Omnibus F4 Nano V6)ā¦around 100$ wasted money.
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