Yep, i see that - yours are returners. 1407 are tornadoes. Good to know.
hi, not sure if you saw it - @tridge made a logging support for the dataflash chip, but i for some reason cannot make it work on the nano v6. does it even have a blackbox chip? betaflight definition seems to have its pin assigned as PB12 for the dataflash, but i am no longer sure. i get bad logging error all the time after the compilation.
if you have any blank nano v6 board left - can you check if it even works under the betaflight to support a blackbox logging?
Hi,
I saw that chat yesterday and am super excited about it! Iām having a problem w/ my new copter (Itās not level after each reboot) and logging would really help me figure out whatās going onā¦
Both of my boards are in copters nowā¦ I could probably flash my older copter Iām not messing w/ right now back to betaflight to checkā¦ But, Iāve got a busy day w/ work today, so it will be a day or two before I have timeā¦
You could try writing to airbots support and ask themā¦ Theyāve been very helpful w/ my questions in the past.
https://store.myairbot.com/contacts/
I think it has one, but Iām basing my info off a few random posts on RCGroupsā¦ I havenāt actually personally checked.
I have one one on the bench, Iāll give it try later. This is an great development!
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so far i did not get it working, must be smissing something in there as we confirmed chip to be on the board, and config seems to be correct, but, something is not cooperating. @tridge says it works on the kakute f4 - but i do not have it so cannot test.
All works,. Param had to be set to 4.
Awesome!
Do you know if Tridge added the configuration to the nano hwdef?
If not, do you think you could copy/paste the lines into the default hwdef and PR it?
Now Iām going to have to read up on the logging options, because 16 megs probably wonāt last long for the defaultsā¦
The past year has been amazing for Arducopter 
(I donāt mean the past month, 2019, but all the 2018 work, and then thisā¦ Really amazingā¦) It was impossible to build a small drone w/ these capabilities a year ago.
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I encounter a strange issue where motor spin direction always remain the same eventhough I change the motor direction on the ESC (via BlHeli suite). I use mission plannerās motor test screen to check the motorās direction and it is always the same whatever the ESC ānormalā or āreverseā parameter. I donāt understand how that is not working.
ANyone any clue ?
Iāve only swapped wiresā¦ Never tried the reverse motor function of the ESC. But, that functionality shouldnāt have anything to do w/ arducopterā¦
Are you sure the parameters are saving? The next time you open the blheli configurator, itās still reversed?
For anyone using an omnibus nano, is it staying level for you? At least a couple of us are having the exact same issue w/ the IMUās thinking the copter is progressively tilting more and more over a flight, when itās not.
Sorry Wicked1 I havenāt been able to test mine further after setting the loop rate back to 400. Too cold to fly outside (darn Polar Vortex) and this 130 is a handful to fly in the limited space I have in the basement. A ~2 min flight seemed to work OK but thatās not very definitive for this issue.
No problemā¦ Whenever you have time, let me know. I caved and ordered another ESC and FCā¦ I still hope I donāt need to rebuild, but I have them if necessary. Itās nice to have spares on hand anyway.
Anyway, no rushā¦ and if I get it solved before I hear from anyone else, Iāll definitely update the threads.
Yes Iām sure and I see the modified parameters after a second connection. But no effect whatsoever.
I only get an effect after swapping wirres physically.
The BlHeli suite had always worked fine for me using Betaflight or Cleanflight. But this behaviour only happens with ChibiOS Ardupilot. So there might be a link somehow even though I donāt understand what.
@Paul_Atkin1 (or anyone)
What port in the arducopter config is ESC telemetry on? -For the omnibus nano.
In the config, the defaults are:
Serial 1 is telem. Serial 2 is nothing. Serial 3 is GPS. Serial 4 is GPS. (I only have 1 GPS, but this is whatās in the default config).
Iāve tried port 2 and 4, and donāt see any infoā¦ I just want to be sure I have the port correct, before I start looking for other issues.
thanks
esc telem will be on any port you configure with an option for it. 
SERIAL_PROTOCOL for that port needs to be set to 16, that is all.
on kakute f7 it is an UART7 which is usually fed ESC telem signal, it is mapped to SERIAL5, i think. you set it to that 16 protocol and speed of 115K.
to cehck if you get that ESC telem is not easy, simplest way is to alter the battery to option 9 - BATT_MONITOR 9 0:Disabled 3:Analog Voltage Only 4:Analog Voltage and Current 5:Solo 6:Bebop 7:SMBus-Maxell 8:UAVCAN-BatteryInfo 9:BLHeli ESC 10:SumOfFollowing Controls enabling monitoring of the batteryās voltage and current
this way when you connect lipo while your model is connected to MP it should start showing voltage and current from ESCs if telemetry works ok and flows in fine.
sorry i did not see. for nano v6 it is a serial 4.
SERIAL4_PROTOCOL 16 -1:None 1:MAVLink1 2:MAVLink2 3:Frsky D 4:Frsky SPort 5:GPS 7:Alexmos Gimbal Serial 8:SToRM32 Gimbal Serial 9:Rangefinder 10:FrSky SPort Passthrough (OpenTX) 11:Lidar360 13:Beacon 14:Volz servo out 15:SBus servo out 16:ESC Telemetry 17:Devo Telemetry 18:OpticalFlow 19:RobotisServo Control what protocol Serial4 port should be used for. Note that the Frsky options require external converter hardware. See the wiki for details.
set battery monitor to 9 as i stated above.
Thanks a lot!
I take it from your reply that the āstatusā readout in MP for ESC is still not functioning. So, maybe it was working :). Iāll try the battery monitor test in a little while.
This particular ESC has a current wire, so Iām hoping it actually measures the current internally, too, and sends it over ESC telemetryā¦ (It has telemetry and current wires).
The omnibus nano doesnāt have a current pin, does it? I noticed the hwdef still says pc1 is the current sensor, but I think thatās left over from the bigger omnibus FC.
Nope, nano got pretty much nothing. 
I finally finished my first 3" build on a Kakute F7. In case you missed my build video, I repost here:
Next will be the endurance flight test.
Nice!
Iāve had two problems w/ those batteriesā¦
The spiral nature of them makes them more inductiveā¦ It interferes w/ my magnetometer more than a flat battery, and I think they interfere w/ my gyrosā¦ Iāve been having problems w/ my copter going out of level under throttleā¦ I can hold down on the bench, spin up the motors, and watch the HUD slowly tilt. When I turn the throttle off, it re-levels. That issue is much worse w/ 18650ās! (This is still just a guess. There are other differences like theyāre heavier, so I am using more power when I use the 18650ās, and may be that is causing the increased tiltā¦ It seems like more is going on thoughā¦ Because a high speed run w/ traditional lipos doesnāt cause it to tilt as much as these 18650ās at hover)
And the other issueā¦ I canāt find an ESC that works at less than 6v, and LiIonās have to be discharged to a lower voltage to get the full capacity, and they sag more. My batteries are basically 1/2 full at the point I have to land.
-Thatās a great build video! And I see your GPS is on a mastā¦ I couldnāt tell on the image here on the forumā¦ Thatāll mitigate the magnetometer interference.
āIf you do any sort of long range flights let me know how that telemetry modem performs.
Interesting feedback about the 18650 impact on gyros. Iāll experiment that for sure.
It is true that 2S is a bit low in voltage and Iāll have to land at minimum 6.4V (3.2V per cell) with the specific ESC I have. Even if that is only 60% of the full charge, it is, for a 3500mah capacity still way more at equivalent weight than a LiPo battery could provide.
60% x 3500 mah @100grams = 2100 mah for 100 grams.
To compare a 2S LIpo at 2200 mah weighs 148 grams, 50% more than a Lithium Ion.
Furthermore, the long rectangular shape and size of a LiPo of that capacity makes it impossible to fit and balance nicely on the top plate.
A little anti EMI tape around the 2S pack might solve the issues you encountered. I bought such tape in a specialized shop in France whoās making EMI military grade insulations around cables and boxes. It adds a little weight for sure but not more than regular thick tape. It is made of a what looks like to be some kind of Aluminium looking foil material with on top of it a small metallic net.Iāll post a picture.
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