(This wasn’t supposed to be a direct reply to Andy, but I’m not sure how to undo that… anyway…)
Hi Guys,
I just returned from spending a couple weeks in the desert… I had my MicroArducopter with me. I’m glad I did, too, because there aren’t a lot of points of reference out there, and I would have surely been lost w/out the GPS/OSD pointing my way home on several occasions. Here’s a vid of a relatively long flight. I had a few longer, but don’t have OSD recordings of them, and wanted to post one w/ the OSD.
At some point in my desert trip my video got pretty wobbly (as it is in this vid)… I just noticed one of my motors is missing its C clip, so that fell off at some point, and I had a really loose motor! I’m not sure where I’m going to find a tiny replacement C clip…
if you have a working model with nano v6 in it - can you try to replicate pls? just pull latest master, compile, flash, and see in OSD after boot from lipo if any messages are still showing up in OSD.
I haven’t had a chance to do this yet, but just looked at the dev chat, and it looks like you’ve all found the issue over there. Let me know if you still need anything…
it is all fixed now thx to Peter. works fine. latest build got proper driver for tfmini lidar that allows simply to plug it in as is with no prior setup and it ‘just works’ - quite nice. i added it to my owl frame to make it hold altitude indoors.
latest toy i play with now in house is this one: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3154412-Emax-TinyHawk-Racing-Whoop
but it only runs betaflight. fun little thing. now i got 8 of those things, wife gives me an evil eye.
Hugues, thanks for that test.
Even the tattoo isn’t great… Mine shuts down at about 6v, so 3v per cell… Your measurement is probably more accurate, so I’ll assume it’s the same 3.2v per cell.
It’s not really good enough… Sometimes in the cold my voltage drops to almost 5v when it’s 1/2 full and under load.
My old blheli_S esc’s all go down to at least 5v… I’ve never had one cut power to the motors, and I know my battery has sagged lower than that. All the blheli_32 ESC’s seem to be 6v at best… I have to slow down a lot towards the end of my flights to keep the voltage up…
I don’t understand the change, and why no one else is talking about it… Maybe we’re the only ones in the world building 2s copters?? heh…
2s i would think is not very popular. smallest ones are 1s, then i think it is easier to go with 3s. so it very well may be so.
i did 2 3" models - gecko on 4s/4000kv and owl on 3s, on 5000kv motors - and i prefer gecko by far. more punch, more time to fly… not sure how it would work on 2s at all.
I tested the spedix gs25a esc, and on the bench it seems good.
I was having a problem w/ a motor, so was using the motor test in Mission Planner to spin them up to about 10%, and it suddenly quit. I checked my battery voltage, and it was about 5v. So, with 1 motor at 10% power, the esc lasted until about 5v…
BUT… URG, the low cost manufacturing nature of these components has defeated me once again!
I’m building a new copter and have a bad motor and a bad ESC… (Maybe the bad motor caused the bad esc?). A motor was twitchy. I tested it on another ESC, it was still twitchy. I found a disconnected wire in it and repaired it. Connected it to the originial ESC, and it was still twitchy! Completely disassembled the motor and resoldered every connection… Still twitchy. Spent more time on the motor, but eventually tried a different ESC, and it worked! So, the ESC was bad, too, and causing the same symptoms as the bad motor. Besides spending all day figuring out this dual motor and ESC issue, I’m going to have to basically rebuild my copter to replace the ESC.
I get SO many bad components in this hobby… spend a LOT of time troubleshooting new stuff… It’s frustrating!
I just came across your post. Are you getting telemetry from the Nano thru the crossfire Rx to Transmitter? Are you using an OpenTx Transmitter? I am trying a similar build using FrSky Rx with no luck getting telemetry out of the Nano…
Thanks,
Fred
I’m using crossfire and it’s connected to an open serial port like a traditional telemetry modem. It works great.
I’m not sure about frsky… Paul might see this and reply, as I think he uses frsky. I think there was an issue w/ port inversion, but most little frsky rx’s have non inverted port pads these days… there might be a way to make it work.
Alright, I finished my new copter. No props in the camera view now with this new frame.
The spedix gs25a ESC is definitely good on 2s. There didn’t appear to be any sudden death at a particular voltage. The motors got weaker until the battery died.
Differences between this one and the one in the first post…
Frame, ESC, and motors.
Frame is heavier, but no props in the shot.
Motors are 1402’s. the copter in the 1st post has 1103’s.
This build is 20 grams heavier… One in the first post is 95 grams w/out the battery. This one is 115 w/out the battery. That will probably cost me some flight time, but hopefully not too bad.
No problems w/ GPS or tuning or alt_hold. Arducopter is working great on these small copters!
Sure,
It’s the FlexRC skydiver frame. (I modified it a little, to make it lighter)
Omnibus Nano v6 FC
spedix gs25a ESC
brotherhobby 1402 8100kv motors
CSG shop micro GPS… But the new little matec is smaller and lighter, and might work better… I’m using it on my other copter, and will soon do some side by side comparisons.
TBS Crossfire nano receiver (I just ordered their new nano diversity receiver, so will switch to it soon)
TBS Unify Pro 5v VTX
950mah 2s battery
I don’t know long the battery will last yet, and that’s very important to me. These motors are really powerful, but if my flight time is too short I might switch to the lighter 1103 motors.
Pls post what flight time you get. Are those motors also very notchy? I would use emax, i think. I love em on my 3" build. Armattan mini titans are crap. 2 of them developed quite a bell play now, even with no crashes. Only good part about titans - they can carry a lot, it seems.
I also think i will finally get to it and try to write a driver to control runcam split 2 via serial interface. That pwm adapter i got is practically useless, not sure why but it works 1 time out of 10 switch trips. It is just structure of arducopter code is so odd, i just cannot grasp all the required dependencies…
But, as i got it on 3 models, i need it.
So far these motors seem great!! I think I’m getting the same flight time as my lighter, less powerful 1103’s… but I’ve been flying slow and cautiously, since it’s a new copter… I’ll keep you posted.
They’re definitely smoother, too. Video looks great.
It’s tricky to fly! More power so it shoots up faster, and it’s heavier, so it drops faster… I need to retrain my thumbs.
And… the motors are notchy, but like I said, very smooth when running.
My 1103’s developed some play, but these 1402’s have a thicker shaft and bigger bearings, brass spacers… they should be sturdier, and I doubt they’ll get loose.
they are extremely notchy and i had issues even to complete autotune with them, plus, alt hold was showing signs of vibrations induced errors. i then replaced those with emax rs1306 4000kv - and it all got cured.i have it now on the 3" gecko build on 4s lipo - a little rocket.
not sure what and why was done to those motors, as bigger ones - those -
are amazing on my 6" build. smooth and almost no vibrations.
By “notchy” I just mean as notchy as my 1103’s… which are quite notchy for an 110* size motor… theyve apparently got some very strong magnets. But anyway, so far these 1402’s are great.
