MicroArduCopter, 3" props, Omnibus Nano, Success!

hi, yes, kakute F7 is flashed with chibios and arducopter. can also be flashed with betaflight.

motors are new brotherhobby 1407 3600kv. are they better than t-motors - not sure, but i like them better.
3600kv is used in the anticipation of 4s lipo. most people would fly 3" quad on 3s and that can use smaller faster motors to save weight. but, as i have a pile of 4s 1500mah lipos so i did not want to buy a new set.

weight is without battery, so with a lipo it is almost 450g. there are ways to reduce that but i am not very concerned as i wanted to build owl frame for my kid, to play with safely. i could have used lighter camera, lighter video transmitter, antenna. lidar also adds weight but it is needed for indoor alt hold stability.

does anybody know - is this supposed to work?

Looks good. 248g! That’s a beast. Mine is only 95g w/out the battery…
How long does the battery last?

I wish I could fly yours, to see the difference between small motors 95 gram, and big powerful motors, but 250g… 2s 950mah bat vs your 4s 1500’s…

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did you use 4in1 esc to provide current data? i cannot solve it for some reason. odd.
BAT section has all 0 while ESC sections have correct data.
i like how it handles. it feels it is a bit heavy with this lipo at 450g total weight but it flies and motors get only tad warm. it feels it has a bit of kick in it if needed. i did not tune it yet but it went up fine on the tune from 6" rooster, amazingly. no oscillations, no issues.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PL74zbBfIY7xSDi3kcWoW8cN47ICzJzA/view?usp=sharing

what should be changed?

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Im not using esc telemetry. I am not set up for development, so can’t compile one w/ uart4 enabled for the omnibus nano… Hopefully someone updates master!! Hint hint, to RainFly who just got theirs working :).
I’ve been having too much fun building and flying to sit in front of my computer and loading ubuntu, etc… (I work on computers all day long, so try to avoid them as much as possible in my free time)

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i got a weird combination that sort of worked -
in the first screen i had ‘other’ selected and for second - ‘blheli’, as shown. voltage was taken, current also did show but i think with not correct values - will check.


yes it works. but, it looks like all data goes into the BAT2 section of log and not into BAT. i suspect it will have issues, not sure now how to test low battery failsafe with this.

i got to say i am very surprised with the level of vibrations i observe. not sure how it is possible.
it is from simple loiter - EKF did not complain, as i was looking at it in MP real time - but it is so odd to see X vibes getting so high while Z are where it would have been always.
i wonder if it is something 3" model specific at high KV but it is odd

I created a pulll request to get UART4 in hwdef.dat.
At least I think so. I’m not a developer.

OK, thanks a lot!!

I’ll get around to getting myself set up for development soon, as the days get colder… So, no big deal if you don’t get it in.

are your props balanced?

And, is anything loose? Be sure everything is screwed/taped/strapped very tightly.

all is done as usual, i suspect it is a prop wash, going down a duct tape path now… just like in the ‘red and green’ show, if you remember what it was… :slight_smile:

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How do you communicate the mavlink telemetry from the Kakute F7 to mission planner ? via an ESP8266 Wifi board or via radio ? Or do you not transfer telemetry during flight and you just use a USB cable on the ground ?

esp8266 board. it is also possible to connect usb cord directly, or course.

I use crossfire… It does RC and telemetry over the same link… I’ve flown out several kilometers and it works great.
At some point it switches to a limited mode where you can’t change parameters, but it still sends data back. That range is quite short for me, 50-100 meters, but TBS supports says I should be getting 1-2k w/ the full telemetry link. I’m working w/ them to solve that…

But anyway, crossfire is a great option for telemetry and RC.

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Couldn’t the pixracer board fit in the OWL3" frame ? have you tried ?
(it would be lighter and more compact as it integrates the ESP8266 AND contains all IMUs including a mag)
Pixracer dimension and weight:
Weight: 10.54g (.37 oz)
Width: 36mm (1.42”)
Length: 36mm (1.42”)

and the Kakute F7:
Size:55x40x6.4mm
Weight: 17g

It may fit. I also have one pixracer i received back from repair but did not try fitting it. Owl frame can fit quite a bit as you can use higher posts. But pixracer will not have osd and has less uarts than i wanted. Plus it has imu hard mounted and it also not a good factor. I just like kakute better and it is $50 cheaper. I was curious about that stack and it worked out well. Pixracer would probably also worked out ok.

I am not sure how well an embedded mag on pixracer board will behave right above 4in1 esc module. That may not work out well, i think. The way i monted gps worked out well.

I have 3 Pixracers one on a 210 quad and find the integrated mags useless on all the craft. Also, powering direct from battery as some of these F4 and F7 boards do cuts down on required hardware. And it’s hard to beat a $30 AIO FC. I like PixRacers but the implementation of these small and cheap FC’s with Arducopter is brilliant I think.

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I too get very high VibeX on my 180mm 4s. I think it’s down to the props, can’t think of anything else, and my theory is that it’s either propwash or something to do with the relative position and acceleration of each at any one time - I am using 4" BN and they are quite aggressive on 4s relative to the size of the copter. Z has no component in this scenario (which makes me doubt propwash) and Y may cancel each other out better. My FC is softmounted on the rubber matek posts.

I gave up on the ESP8266 that came with my pixracer - way too unreliable and very short range, even with the very latest firmware. Plus it pokes up quite a lot above the board itself. Switched to a bluetooth module mounted underneath and never looked back.