I can arm and disarm but engines never stop?

You need to find a set of left hand nuts to jam against the other ones. That would probably solve the prop problem

Boat takes it really well. Boat is 5kg total and 92cm long.

Unfortunately Lipo is over expensive here in turkey(a clone pixhawk is x4 times than its in amazon.com) . I had to go with the SLA Battery. as they are very easy to charge and cheap.
lipo’s are x3-4 more expensive than in hobbyking. also, I’m a beginner and lipo made me nervous. I dont want to burn my house or the boat. :frowning:
I’ll set these parameters now thanks.

Water leak happens from the shaft entrance. I think I’ll get some foam.

boat’s buoyancy and gravitational center looks really nice. Only problem is the shaft i guess.

Btw. after testing the props this morning(i had a lot of water in take) props look solid in reverse modes.

thanks. I’ll see what i can manage. After tightening the props thoroughly they didn’t spin off. I probably didn’t fit them well in the first place.

this happened idk why :frowning: they used to be the same

Okay i trmmed the 1st one down.

it worked!

I assigned Gear button to ch7. and did the parameter as you described. It arms/disarms with the switch! Thanks a bunch!

Make sure the trims on your radio are centered at all times and don’t use them for anything. Then run Radio Calibration in Mission Planner. After that if you do not want your props to reverse make the setting on the Servo Output page I posted earlier and try it out. I would not trust that the self tightening props will stay on in reverse. It’s more likely they will spin off under load and then your boat will be dead in the water.

For what you are doing why did you go with a dual motor setup in the 1st place? It would seem that a typical prop and rudder setup would be easier to manage.

I really didn’t have much option.
It is a very low budget project. Right now i have 2 big issues.

Water leaking(shaft entering) i think i need white glue?

2nd is the left shaft. It’s not working well. There’s a friction. https://youtu.be/IYf2VAOTcUg

I really don’t want to change the shaft as there is limited option and i can’t do it :frowning:

In this video they added this rudder…

I have a fixed plywood that houses esc battery and pixhawk. Maybe i should add a bec and servo for rudder? https://youtu.be/9OOAtUnSkxg like this

Luckly there are bunch of poles for stuff to mount in. Really. I used 12 screws to fix the plywood. It was some luck for me.

I chose this one because it is sold 100 usd here in Turkey.

Actually, this boat is quite good for adding stuff in it and cheap.

The top part of cockpit is removeable. Even mounting the camera was easy!

This rudder is sold here. Maybe i should completely leave alone the skid steer and add rudder.

Can the rc transmitter power it? No right. How will i power it😑

That boat is cheap because the components are very low quality. I can’t tell from those videos what actually seals the props shafts at the transom. All I see is very sloppy globs of silicone. They sell a boat similar to that here at a Tool Outlet store for ~$60.

I wouldn’t bother with adding any value like a rudder to that boat. That’s throwing good money after bad. But if you did you can power it from the BEC in the motor ESC’s. Get it running as it’s intended to run with differential thrust and hopefully it will run long enough to get thru your thesis!

Yes you are right. Adding a rudder is a cost.
Esc’s 5V red line is available other 2 connected to the pix hawk?

Well if the 5V+'s are enough i can use them on the gimbal servos.

Yes the boat is cheap. That’s the whole idea.

I’m looking for new props now. I saw flex ones? Are they okay? Would it really work?

I hope differential works. I will buy marine glue. Its very cheap. And i will pour it around the shaft tube entrance to the boat. Hopefully will fix the issue.

I want to test it on the auto mode then. The disarm switch changed lots pf things for me already!

I spent near a thousand bucks. And boat is the ten percent lol.

How do you have the BEC from the ESC’s connected to the Pixhawk? Normally there would be no connection if you are using a power module. No power module?

$1000? Wow, things must be expensive in Turkey, that would buy a lot of kit here.

My wrong. The esc’s pwm is connected to the pix hawk. PM’s power line (bec) is connected to the pix hawk.

But i don’t have an additional bec or power line

You don’t need an additional BEC. One will power many servo’s.

Okay. But i didn’t get the thing with servos.
To power 2 servos, how will i do the wiring?

Power module has 1 xt60 out for escs and 1 out for pix hawk?

You have ESC’s with BEC’a right? Where is the confusion?

http://pro.890m.com/tag/320a-esc-brushed/

İ really don’t know. It has 2 motor output, 1 pwm type output. The red wire supplying 5V+ and max 2A i guess. (i cut the wire). And it is connected to the pix hawk.

Esc has no more outputs. I suppose no additional bec

So use the BEC from the ESC if you need power for a servo. Or don’t if you are not adding a servo. I don’t understand your confusion. What do you mean no more output? You don’t need more outputs. You would power the servo from the ESC BEC (5v out) and the signal for the servo from a Pixhawk output. If you don’t understand that forget about adding a servo.

Go back to the Wiki for some very basic configuration info.

Okay now I got it thanks.
Sorry for the confusion. I’ll use the bec’s then. :grin:

I reached to a rc model maker, he gave me fine instructions on water leak and prop spin off.

I just want to change the shafts. İ may get 2 flex shafts. Left one is causing issues.

Okay i checked it… I need to plug the 5V+ and 5V- to 6th slot on pixhawk. Should i make a parallel connection of the 5V ground? As the esc’s 3 pin pwm/bec is connected to the servo part? Or can i just plug the 5V- to the relay in?

Will only the Signal from esc to pixhawk be enough?

Are you going to use a servo? If not, its not worth discussing this further.

Yes. I have 2 installed servos (9g). They have pwm cables.

I built it on top pf the boat. Here, some pictures.

Sorry for my lack of knowledge.

I think, i will change the shafts using a universal connection part and use epoxy for the entrance of the shaft. I just to need to measure everything. I’m told to use (blue colored) loctite for the props (against the spinoff). But if the diameters fit, ı think i will just replace the shafts on Monday