throw Autotune mode at it and it’ll get it perfect.
@Satoru_Sasaki . . . is the motor-gear assembly detachable from the arm?
Is this pic the same as what you used? Are you using the stock SV motors? What size props?
TIP:
Since I do most of my flying at night, the LED relocation is really important. I’ve found that if you remove the lower portion of the LED bay it makes it easier to remove & reinstall the lens with the LED pre-pressed into it.
@JEFFGORDON Looks like exact the same unit. Be sure to get center plastic mount together with that motor parts.
I use motors came with that. Motor size is the same but gear and gear ratio is different. Note spar gear shaft is carbon and it has bearing, No slopping.
This photo shows how it is assembled. Square plastic covers connector and very thin wire goes through square carbon pipe. Carbon square pipe is not glued, only pushed into center mount and motor mount. Wire is very thin and fragile at best. (I needed to rewire it after I opened this tonight.)
Prop dia is slightly larger than SV. Center white prop is the ebay one I mentioned. Same dia but slightly wider blade than SV.
[quote=“Satoru_Sasaki, post:65, topic:27496”]
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That sticker should say
“Warning: This sticker and the residual glue it leaves behind will cause this prop to be wildly off balance”
@Leztec . . . thanks for the inspiration to try the $2 Tx antenna mod . . . mine arrived today and just finished the install . . . went a little different route than you, decided to keep the strut intact.
Will do range testing tomorrow.
UPDATE: Have not seen much, if any, increase in range 
guess 3-cell Tx’s have their limits
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Did the Tx to SV antenna transplant today to see if there was any noticeable increase in range.
It was pretty straightforward and required no cutting . . . but . . . all I got out of it was a close-up view of the Tx antenna dipole PCB . . . no increase in range even after mounting the antenna horiz and vert. The app always said “connecting” but never did so I flew with GPS locked from Tx light.
I’m guessing that at these frequencies, location of antenna means nothing . . . guess SkyRocket dialed in the antenna.
Decided to add self stick landing gear pads since sometimes I land on dirt and the dirt gets driven into the motor mount and makes it hard to disassemble for maintenance.
Also, has anyone noticed a SV design change for the brush guards? I think the ones I now have mounted might be the new style and are more robust.
The LEDs covers can be popped out with an xacto blade or similar thin tool. No need to disassemble the belly plate. I drilled 1/8" holes, very slowly. Learn from my mistake iin this photo! The holes should be at the wide end of the lens/cover, not centered. The LED leads only have so much slack. Bend the connectors, slip the bulb through the lens and snap the lens in place, narrow end first.
This does make a difference in low light. Nice improvement for little effort.
Nice. I may try this with my older SV. Three of the gear shafts have worn their housing and the blades wobble when spinning. The craft shakes and is not stable in flight.
Yeah mine is getting pretty bad like that too. I’ve got one blade that’ll contact the frame at certain angles. It doesn’t hold position in Loiter very well anymore, but I can still manage Sport mode…actually I fly sport now more than anything. I’ll switch back to Loiter when I need to quickly recover from a maneuver.
Here is what I did with the antennas. It helps…a tiny amount. I still have a lot of disconnect issues though. I really don’t know why.
Been there, done that . . . wound up putting mine back to original. Didn’t see any noticeable difference and did have disconnect issues. I think SkyViper has the antenna dialed in.
The ultimate fix for my reception problems was fixing this parameter.
BRD_RADIO_TXMAX → 8
It defaults to 4. I set it to 8 and now I can fly a long ways away…probably runs the battery out faster though.
Is the advantage of increased Tx range limited to Manual mode? When I fly Auto missions (Tower) the Tx connection can drop in and out but the missions seem to continue no problem, so far. Am I missing something?
I thought about starting a new thread: Is feasible to install the necessary gps/autopilot components (I don’t even know the correct terms) in the SV 2900 pro? Does it even have the brain for that? Compared to the v2450gs the 2900 has such powerful motors and a bit nicer camera, even if the airframe is a bit clunky. Could be an interesting hybrid?
http://ardupilot.org/copter/docs/parameters.html#fs-thr-enable-throttle-failsafe-enable
This controls the function of when the FC loses contact with the Tx (throttle goes to 0). However, by default the SV is setup to return to home (or land).
If you lose Tx during the mission, it should RTL. Are you sure it isn’t warning about breaching the Fence?
Totally different hardware. AP won’t load to it
Although, if you still have a working 2900, then perhaps you could transplant the SV2450’s brains to the 2900, and use the 2900’s ESCs. I’m certain you could get a tiny bit of help on this forum with that, but probably only @Matt_Morton knows anything about the internals of the 2900. You’d definitely be experimenting to figure out the ESC tunings and such…still could be a neat experiment.
The 2900 is a beautiful looking quad, but from what i’ve read it had some issues. The 2450’s flight board, sonix and GPS could potentially work within that chassis. The GPS, might need to be mounted special, as the 2900’s case may not allow sufficient pass-through of the signal…all about experimentation and whether you’re willing to lose both a 2450 and a 2900 lol
BUT, you COULD gain an AMAZING brushless 2450 GPS!
yeah the 2900 is like a horse running wild, all power no steering
Thanks for the helpful replies but I think hat experiment is beyond my technical abilities at present!
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