It’s enabled in the last log you posted.
Also reduce the bandwidth of the notch filter down from 40 to 20 when using multi-source (per-motor) notch.
You may be able to go even lower, like 15 or 10.
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Also reduce the bandwidth of the notch filter down from 40 to 20 when using multi-source (per-motor) notch.
You may be able to go even lower, like 15 or 10
what do you think about this @dkemxr
It makes sense. With one notch to cover all motors the BW would have to be wider to cover the variability between them. With a notch per motor this can be more targeted. Guessing that’s Shawn’s logic and I would agree.
Actually I can experiment with this also as I have a 5" (low pitch) with the same FC you are using. Only difference is it’s now on 3S Lipo. It was on 2S Li-Ion for awhile.
these aremy tunes after autotune
the autotune PIDs are way diffrent then the previous PIDs
the esc was hot and the motors were warm after the autotune
No so different other than Stabilize Pitch/Roll jacked. Reduce those to 24 and set the Rate Pitch/Roll D-terms back to .0015 and there you are. Auto Tune will heat things up.
What Motors and ESC do you have?
Should I make this change @dkemxr
“Also reduce the bandwidth of the notch filter down from 40 to 20 when using multi-source (per-motor) notch.”
And what params I will have to change to do so ??
Sure, make it 15Hz INS_HNTCH_BW,15
Then you are likely done with tuning. If things get too hot you may have to go back to 4" props. 5" is a lot of prop for a 4600kv motor but I suppose it’s working OK because you are on 2S.
ok @dkemxr
also i wanted the bank angle, and the climb rate adjustuded, i want the quad to climb and decend at a spesific speed, also i wanted it to use less power overall for more efficiancy and less manuverability,
any suggestions???
All said and done, took a field flight,
The esc gets hot, the drone drops and reboots
One thing to understand is prop sizes will effect the tune and battery 3s Like Dave said.
I drop to 4" props or even 3"
-flywoo 13a blheli_s esc dshot 600
blheli_s esc dshot the _s esc require a slower dshot speed than the 32 bit… I have a set that will not work at 600. BTW how was the first flight before the tune? If overall smooth it could be the esc’s like you said try setting the speed lower or use one-shot as a test.
Did you set SERVO_DSHOT_ESC = 2? This is timing rather than speed related
I always wondered the best setting for the _S esc as they are older. BTW the _S esc I am using right now will give me an error and not arm if set to 600 in the new Beta. working fine if set to 300. Figured the software is more precise now.
My Cat is not allowed to fly with me anymore as a family of fox moved in.
Hi ihave done various tests,
5in - motors higly warm - ESC was hot (uav dropped out of the sky in flight and rebooted)
4in - motors coo - ESC was hot (slightly less, big “if”) (uav is likely to drop and reboot happend once)
need your help man
here is the file
Disable the 2nd Notch. Is your current monitor calibrated?
how do i calibarate the current monitor
note : running 4in floppy proppy
this is my batt monitor
Fully charge your battery.
Go fly for a while. 5 minutes should be enough.
Charge the battery and note the number of MAH put into the battery. (charged mah)
Look at the log file for the flight and see what the drone recorded for MAH drawn. (Logged mah)
Look at the paramaters and record the value for BATT_AMP_PERVLT (Old Amps/volt)
Do some math:
New Amps/Volt=(Old Amps/Volt * Charged mah)/Logged mah
Update BATT_AMP_PERVLT with the New Amps/Volt value. As long as your charger gives you a decent and consistent reading on the MAH into the battery then this will give you a good calibration for your current meter. Typically I find if I do this process twice then the current meter is accurate within a few %.