I don’t understand… Is it even a thing nowadays? Everyone is into mini/micro quads, and market sorta reflects that. So, I want to build a 680 Alien quad, and got these BlHeli_32 ESCs (which apparently are racing quads). Which parameters should I use? Pretty much 100% of googled instructions are for mini quads.
I found Bardwell’s video on BLHeli32 quite useful for understanding the various settings.
Nothing to understand really.All you will likely have to change is to disable Low RPM Power protect.
I’ve seen this one. Again, they talk about miniquads and make some remarks like “oh, that’s mostly for large quads with lo kv motors” without explanation.
The most important setting is disabling the Low RPM Power protect, as mentioned above.
I put the timing on auto for BLheli32-esc’s.
And don’t forget to add a capacitor!
It is very likely the ones that are on there are not sufficient for the longer cables we use in larger drones.
No explanation required. I have been using BLHeli ESC (_2 and 32) for all size multirotors with default settings (other than Low RPM Power Protect). 320kV motors work fine.
Yess, put capacitors, I burned one esc in a large cuad…and when say burned is literaly, get fire :o
Same here. I only build large quads and capacitors are a life saver.
I was planning to put ESCs closer to the PDB, maybe 10cm away. Do I still need caps? Do I need to find low ESR ones or regular caps would work?
A capacitor cost around 50cent
Don’t think about it
old thread, but I am going to have to disagree with the “no explanation required” sentiment. I have indeed run out-of-the-box blheli23 settings successfully with large builds. BUT with some builds I have also experienced some desyncing issues which I attribute to the factory blheli settings on the 4-in-1 racing ESCs that I have been using with big props on low-kv motors. So I now believe that the blheli32 racer ESCs are not great for large builds without some tweaking. I have scant experience or advice to offer on exactly which settings to change and by how much, because–as you pointed out–there’s little info out there for large frames. Also, it seems in general hard to diagnose the esc performance with the available logging feedback that is readily available. If you find a resource, please let me know.
I build reasonably large machines both hexa and quad. I have to adjust the BLheli settings for all of them as I have run into de-sync a few times.
This was my last de-sync issue.
High winds, low speed close to the ground… recipe for disaster.
I set De-Mag to high.
Up the PWM if that option is there.
And Motor timing I believe I increase that as well.
Not had an issue since.
I’ve been using these BLHELI settings with off-the-shelf 4in1 ESCs even with heavy payloads and long flight times.
All are defaults or “Auto” where possible, except these ones altered
Rampup Power = 25
Temperature Protection = 100
Low RPM Power protect = OFF
Low Voltage Protect = OFF
Sine Modulation = ON
I think these are the default values I see that most people are worried about, and I leave them like this:
Demag Compensation = LOW
Motor Timing = Auto
Pwm Freq Min = 48
Pwm Freq Max = 96
With Temperature Protect the default of 140 will never be reached since the F3 MCU stops working at 120 degrees celcius, and BLHELI starts scaling back output power from whatever level you set - so 100 should be safe.
With Low Voltage Protect I turn it off and make sure the Flight Controller is measuring the battery voltage (and current) accurately, and controlling what happens when a battery reaches a low or critical level.
EDIT: and CAPACITORS, more is more
I’m glad this thread got brought back up. I’m a miniquad fpv guy building my first 550+ drone. In fact, I’ve settled on Tarot XS690, planning to spin 16" or 17" props on T-Motor MN4014 330kv or MN5008 400Kv motors.
My question is basic, is there any downside to using BlHeli32 ESC vs just normal Xrotor 40A ESC? My FC will be Cube Orange.
No, none at all IMO.
I made some very big units for Gov last year but I think in a way the mid sizes units can be way more fun i try not to go bigger using s6 with 18" props.
Dshot 32 is the way to go but having said that i have had very good flights without it.
The OP is almost 3 years old. When I first read the post I was happy to know there are others like me. Wanting to build bigger drones when it feels like I’m (we’re) behind the times. Then I realize, the post is 3 years old and I’m really missing the bigger multirotor party. Honestly, finding components for bigger drones is harder. I don’t believe it’s covid, as I tried to do this 2019, and felt the same way.
When getting into miniquads for the first time in 2016, Multishot was hitting the main stage. I first used OneShot then tried Multishot on BetaFlight. I felt the difference as a noob. Dshot is a ton better. The No Calibration is worth it alone.
I got my answer guys, thank you. Just out of curiosity, is any advantage(s) with going non-BlHeli ESC? To my surprise, many non-BLHeli ESC doesn’t support Oneshot. Maybe not a big deal when your motor is only 300 to 450Kv… Thanks again.
For reliability with bigger motors or commercial use, I would recommend the APD ESCs - they may use some sort of BLHELI under the covers (I’m not sure), and have their own config program - but behave like BLHELI and take DHSOT as per usual. Temperature and current carrying ability is outstanding - think two or three times the rated current continuously without getting hot!
In nearly all cases you’d be able to use their default settings -> buy it, fit it and fly it.
The APD ESCs are bare and may need some sort of case 3D printed up - you might even be able to talk to them about that for quantities.
At the moment there could possibly be supply issues, but that will impact nearly every manufacturer now.
EDIT: I don’t think there’s any real advantage to going oneshot or multishot - to my way of thinking you can either use PWM because you have no choice (for various reasons) , or DHSOT where ever possible.
After all, the discussion was about big quads (or anything with big motors and props really) and BLHELI
EDIT again: I’d like to point out that the ESCs would be best mounted inboard (like 4in1 ESCs force us to do) and this thing of mounting the ESCs under the motor and running long power wires is probably the worst situation for the ESCs and motor response. Be prepared to add capacitor banks and use bigger-than-usual power wires if you want outboard ESCs.
Hey Shawn- What’s known about the Telemetry Output available? Datasheet says “Betaflight Telemetry Output” and “Intelligent current sensing” which sounds promising.