I can only see this that you told me and few others that are not
ATC_ACCEL_P_MAX
ATC_ACCEL_R_MAX
ATC_ACCEL_Y_MAX
Repeat, and repeat and repeat. This has been ongoing for 10 months.
What do you see here? It’s a rhetorical question, don’t answer just follow the instructions.
Okay, so I will just click the check mark under Use, write params.
Regards
I see no reason for you to create another post until you have replaced the motors, props and battery, balanced the props and rebuilt the craft.
Wait, rebuilt? For now I have only ordered motors, props and prop balancer you suggested. What else?
@adityapruthi01 nine hours ago you agreed first to test your system fixed on a desk to check the power system. But you ignored this again and did a bad flight as before with a crash at the end. This was predictable.
I am out at this point and can’t help, sorry
Motors were already on the way, and I got new golden motors with new collet adapters, and also got permission to fly in the park. With all this i gave the flight a shot. It wasn’t a terrible flight. Just wanted to check if new golden motors improved something. No intention to not follow what you asked, I still am figuring out to fix the quad to the floor, already measured voltage but zipties dont seem to hold the quad better and also how to calculate the measured current with a multimeter. Was going to update you about the same for both values about current and voltage.
Apologies if you thought I’m not following your advise.
I will do that test and revert.
Regards.
I am also out. I see no proof that you are following any of our advice.
Send me hand edited intermediate .param files and I might reconsider.
@amilcarlucas sir, dave said to edit params, i did, he said get new batteries, i did, every single time, he said to get new motors, props, prop balancer, I did. The only part I did on my own was took a flight? If all of you go like this one by one, there will be no one to help me. Flying the craft doesn’t mean i disobeyed you. I am just learning, i repeat that i only did a flight because i got the new motors. Please understand this, if i did something like this and knew you guys would get offended i wouldn’t even post the logs yesterday. I’m tired of apologising, now someone else will come and might end up saying I’m also off. I’m also a human being and love telling you guys that “hey, i got the new motors and tried them, and the quad is vibration free”. If you want me to be a robot, who just follows advise and instructions then alright i will be that too. Apologies for me disobeying you and taking a flight. 
. I won’t repeat a mistake like this.
I will send you the param files, can you tell what is intermediate.?
Regards.
@amilcarlucas Here are the .param files.
Kindly check
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Gv4Bb8WlMuELfAB41wAF7tMBjxq7MjGl
Also, @dkemxr, I clicked on initial tune params, and they all were already ticked, but I still clicked on write to FC, also, ATC_ACCEL_Y_MAX was missing. And after clicking write to FC. I got this Pop Up.
@Juergen-Fahlbusch I tried to calculate the current using a multimeter, but somehow burnt it. I will try with a new equipment now.
Regards
Ok, I still give you a small chance
I tried to calculate the current using a multimeter, but somehow burnt it. I will try with a new equipment now.
Don’ risk the next equipment
What current value do you expect when your motors are running with full load?
What ESC you using (maximum current rating)?
Your multimeter / amperemeter must minimum support this current + 20%
Maybe you are lucky and only a fuse is blown at your multimeter but for high current input often cheap multimeter are unfused and than it blows some other part inside.
If you don’t have a high current multimeter you can use a inline shunt resistor.
Do you have a seperat power module?
If yes send details and a good photo
Hi @Juergen-Fahlbusch,
Thanks for replying sir, I am using simonk 30A ESC’s
I can see my multimeter showing 10A mode, but connecting battery to it, post 10 seconds the probe wires started to melt and then there was no output from the multimeter. I am planning to get a watt meter as I have seen it proves better results. Pls suggest.
There is also a 100A version of the same available.
I believe your are talking about the power module in used in the drone connected with pixhawk and battery. Yes sir, I do have a power module. Looks like this.
Regards
That your multimeter dies is relativ clear.
If each ESC can take up to 30A and you have four of this it will be up to 120A.
A little more as 10A 
With this power module you can use a normal multimeter to check the current.
On the module is between the two red wires a shunt resistor.
You can first try to measure the resistance. It will be some milliohm.
To measure this value the power module has to completly disconnected and unpowered.
Than you can measure the voltage across the resistor while the power module is connected and the motors are switched on.
The current is measured voltage diveded by measured resistance.
Alternatively the power module also presents a small voltage proportional to the current on one of the pins on the small connector. But to identify this Imust know more details about the power module (specifications / datasheet)
I guess you missed the link tagged with “obviously” otherwise you would know what Intermediate parameters files are as it applies to the Tuning Blog. As I have said before, no need to reply with an excuse just follow the instructions given.
Well good for you. That’s what you should have done months ago. Quite the achievement to ignore suggested action starting from May of last year and still following that path. What a colossal waste of time.
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Now I have replaced all motors, props(balanced) and got another 2200 mah battery. Should I go on with the flight?
Regards
Yes. Take off in Stabilize and hover in Stabilize for a minute or so and land. Don’t switch to another flight mode. Then review the log for vibe levels/clipping and the Rc Outputs for oscillation.
Or better yet start at the top of the Tuning Blog and work your way thru it.
Hi dave, took a flight, actually 3 of them, in each of them the quad did not loose control and fly away on its own but was like a boat in the sea i had to keep up with the sticks. I could not take it above a meter or so since it was very wobbly. The Vibration levels have come down drastically, the new motors, new props(balanced) and the isolation damping pad is doing its job. But I don’t know if this is good or not. The last shoot you see in the graph was when one of the adapter came loose and the prop came off in mid air.
The Rcout graph tells me nothing much, just that mean is lower than previous logs. Does that mean they not oscilating bad as previous?
The battery still sags the same I guess. Despite me getting another new battery, this was my third battery.
The log 40 is the flight of the above graphs and log 42 is a longer flight.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Gv4Bb8WlMuELfAB41wAF7tMBjxq7MjGl
Also,
I am using fmuv3, should it be Pihawk1?
Also, I see that these stands tends to get loosen and then ultimately, the screw threads wear off. Any alternative to fix the gps. Which causes mid flight wobble of the stand and gps mounted on the stand.
Also, I am losing telemetry signal as soon as the quad takes off, the screen displayes and speaks “no data for 2 seconds” and then the timer continues until I disarm the quad.
Regards
I see you put the tether back on.
I can’t help you further, good luck. Follow the Tuning Blog.
Dave?? I’ve told you 10 times, it is not my property, i will have too pay 50000 INR if I loose it. What else can I do?? I cannot just risk it. I don’t have somewhere like a big shade where it’ll just fly bump above and fall back. Please do not do this.
Tell me some alternative atleast? You very well know, it goes out of control in previous videos as well. If it all were mine, i won’t even pause before removing the tether.
Regards