Cannot get my drone in air (dead battery, no tune)

Those are probably both the same and the “carbon” is bullshit or what is coloring it black. I would go with the 1045’s.

I have not seen many, if any, achieve good performance and I have seen these craft on the forum for many years. I had this kind of craft (but not those junk motors) in 2014 and pushed it as far as it would go even with replacement G10 arms. Which just exposed how shitty the frame was. It is not worth spending the money on anything on that list IMO. And if your school is offering this stuff they are doing their students a disservice. Ask your instructors to contact some reputable manufacturers (preferably Ardupilot partner companies) and make the case for donated gear.

If you see, in this video, he is using exact same config as hardware to avoid components still the quad is super stable. Do these Pixhawk’s also matter? Like can his pixhawk be a better chinese clone than mine. Also: He is using a Pencil stand as the GPS mount :sweat_smile:

One person’s idea of Stable means nothing.

Good luck with your project.

Also, this is my second battery of this week, battery was completely new and shows 80C, does battery sag happen only when buying shit batteries? I mean is a bad battery only the culprit for the battery sag? What is typical battery graph expected with a good battery? When does it not sag? I can see, battery is dipping to 9.5 volts should that line be mostly straight?
Regards

Did I say something wrong @dkemxr? I think you are saying me goodbye. :smiling_face_with_tear:I still am a newbie and your insight is what my project needs, not luck. Apologies for anything that might have hurt you, was never my Intent. Was just asking about stabilty of the quad and how it is achieved. I hope you forgive me.
Regards.

Everything you need to know can be found in these 2 links.
Arducopter Tuning Process
Tuning Blog

@adityapruthi01 we discussed prior that it is first necessary to find the root causes of all your problems. We said don’t buy new things just on a probably idea.
As I unterstood you are not analysed if your FC is not damaged during one of your crashes.
Also you now has the third battery showing problems. But it might be not the battery also it could be a to high power consumption of your system.
A test of the system without props is nearly useless as your motors and so the system has no load.
You can further make your expensive try and error test or you start methodicaly testing.

Okay dave, I’ll check it out.
Thanks

This is one test he performed. And then decided to fly it anyway.

I suppose that motor should be replaced? Along with the other 3 I would contend.

Okay, I will update you by testing the motors and battery voltage drops with the propellors with the quad being stucked to the ground. Is this fine?
Regards

@dkemxr , a point to note, today before flight i replaced that motor, and then took the flight, ofcourse with new golden motor, but maybe the collet adapter was bad so it anyways vibrated. I anyways have ordered the new motors,props and prop balancer suggested by you, They will be here before 9 Feb. Until that I will test the voltage sag and drop with props.
Regards

Yes, Dave, and this test ends up in a heavy crash.
I agree totally with you to use better components like better motors …
All this behaviour is might be a sum of issues and at the moment I can’t recommend any testflight.

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This essentially is that test:
Which battery is this?

Based on the specs you provided it should hover at 9-10A. So it’s close but I would guess your current monitor isn’t calibrated anyway.

This battery is a 2200 mah 3S 11.1 volt, 80C(written, though I doubt it) battery, I just got it yesterday.

But didn’t he @Juergen-Fahlbusch earlier asked to do with the props, and the drone mounted onto the ground?

When I go in Battery monitor tab it shoes “Analog voltage and current”, should i seperatley measure current from a voltmetre and specify in the measured current tab?
Reagrds

No. All you need is a charger that provides mah put back in the battery and it’s simple to calculate a correct amps/volt value from the ratio of mah logged to mah re-charged.
New Amps/volt = (old amps/volt x charger mah) ÷ logged mah

logged mah as in mah that got into the battery after reaching 100% if i’m not wrong?

You have it backwards. Logged you get from here (your flight):

Charged you get from your charger after fully charging the battery used in the flight.

Dave I am not sure to find the cause for a sagging if only calculated a average value. But that is better than nothing :grinning:
If we are not sure if monitor is working well I still recommend minimum old school voltmeter and amperemeter measurements.

Yes, agree!

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Okay, so i put battery in the quad, do a flight, bring down the battery to let’s say 60%.
See the log, and let’s say it shows currot as 277 like in the graph.


And then I put my battery back to charging, and let’s say after full charge the mah put back into battery shows 600(example). So ratio of mah logged to mah re-charged will be 600/277
So New Amps/volt will be 2.166. Am I correct?
Regards