[APPROVED] Standard Small Copter Build and Tune project - 7" Long Range

Topic:

Users struggle to configure and tune copter builds, especially small copters. This proposal is the first of a series to construct and tune a fairly typical copter of a certain class. Where possible/logical partner technology will be used without compromising the quality of the build.

This proposal is to independently build and tune two 7" Long Range copters. Long Range copters play to ArduPilot strengths (autonomous missions, long range, high quality FPV/video) but also prove quite difficult to tune due to less stiff frames, motors optimized for power consumption and weight.

Proposal type: Hardware [X] , Software [X] , Other [X] : _________________

Description:

Proposed build:
iFlight Titan Chimera7 LR
XING 2806.5 1300KV Motor
Lumenier LUX H7 HD Ultimate/Matek H743 Slim
TBS UNIFY 5G8 PRO32 HV
TBS Nano RX diversity
Gemfan 7040
RunCam Phoenix 2 JB Edition
Matek M8Q-5883
TBS Triumph Pro LR
TMotor F55A Pro II 4-in-1 ESC
Turnigy Graphene Panther 3000mAh 6S 75C x2

Copter would be tuned against Copter 4.1 together with any required software modifications that were discovered.

Build would be written up and published on the wiki together with standard configuration parameters

Planned amount $$ (USD):

$880x2 = $1760

Estimated time for completion:

2 months

Follow-up planned builds:

  • 5" Freestyle
  • 5" Long-Range

You can follow along here:

7 Likes

Brilliant idea and project Andy,this will help so many,my 7 incher flew away but about to start on other one with diff specs to yours but should be fun.Please Mr arducopter approve this request as help so many to get the best from arducopter including me.

P/S Andy,I can supply midnight oil to get project completed yesterday,lol

Thanks @andyp1per. I’ll discuss with @MagicRuB and get back to you.

1 Like

Great idea! The same thing should also be done with a sub 250 gr!

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This is actually really hard, as I haven’t yet found a good frame that can accomodate the electronics and a proper GPS. It’s also incredibly fiddly to build. The closest I’ve got is my Armattan Tadpole whoop, but that has a lot of rough edges.

I built one that’s 238gr with a 2S 3500 Li-ion. But, no Vtx or camera so it doesn’t really qualify for the purpose most build small craft for. If they were added and a smaller Lipo used it could be sub 250gr but as Andy says no good place for even the tiny Matek GPS module. “Fiddly” is the perfect word for it.

My whoop is 181g inc battery 4k video camera and GPS, but I almost never get a good fix from the GPS. I suspect the answer is a battery strap mount or even a little over battery cage - but I don’t have a 3D printer so can’t experiment. Other option is a pole - might try that next.

Strange thing Andy, I remembered your sub 250 was working fine. :frowning:

This is mine (about one year of test!). It’s not cool but it works. The GPS fix is ​​a bit slow but it works (bn220), it flies for 15 minutes and would still fly if there were esc without cutoff voltage at 3.2V. In the log I found 74 Km / h of max speed in poshold and the optical flow sensor (in favorable conditions) maintains the position even at 25m of altitude. Telemetry on radiomaster TX16 and Yaapu script.
Sorry for 6 USD camera

Here some test in auto mode …

And optical flow hold mode …

1 Like

Ok interesting, I am using a BN-180 - maybe I should try the BN-220

2 Likes

I put the BN180 on my 2 "arducopter, it works, but the BN220 is better.
Also try with the separate compass (see my photo above).
At the moment not even DJI has a sub 250 FPV, only the “big” DJI FPV :wink:

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The lack of flash is interesting - I bet that’s part of my problem

Flash? what do you mean?

Without flash the GPS will be starting from scatch every time you power on

Matek unit has ~ the same footprint, a bit fatter. And 1.7g heavier :slight_smile:

If your flight controller allows it, power the GPS from USB, without powering anything else especially VTX. So you can power FC and GPS from USB with power bank without disturbances and the fix will take place in less time, then connect the battery. Use a separate compass. It has to work

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Yeah, looks like the 220 is actually physically quite a lot bigger for 0.4g heavier - so 22x20mm vs 18x18mm. We’ll see - I have ordered a couple. The Matek is bigger again and I don’t like the lack of flat mounting underneath - I tend to put them in a TPU cover which makes them even bigger. Also this is on a BeastH7 so no I2C and no compass possible.

It’s funny you say that. Mine, stuck down with double sided tape, has come loose and it wasn’t pretty. Hard to damage these little quads though.

My bn220 is also attached with a simple double-sided tape. It has withstood notable impacts due to the LIDAR TF LUNA (only 5 gr) which does not work well even if the altitude reading is correct. I’m afraid it’s a code problem. If the code worked well, we could have a 250gr sb with frontal obstacle avoidance and precision altimeter

Approved by the @Funding_Team
Really looking forward to seeing this

1 Like

Absolutely awesome new’s James,will help so many people and hopefully will bring many newcomers into arducopter,and Andy thank you for doing this your a star

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