After the crash pix not running

2days ago I crashed tree branches during autotune and fallout from nearly 2m but slow down and pixhawk is under the frame.

Sorry for background sound :sweat_smile: , first time power with USB after power module

Now still pixhawk not working or not responding , what’s the problem ??

Thank you :slightly_smiling_face:

Can you disconnect everything and see if it powers from the USB with nothing connected to it.

Yeah it’s power through usb , external power supply and also outputs side are LEDs are on but main doesn’t
And can’t connect to the mission planner

well, if during the fall to the ground you have damage the pcb of the fc, you have only trash it.
i suggest you invest for something more robust… radiolink manufacturing is really poor.

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This is all you need to know about Radiolink. I don’t know why anyone supporting Ardupilot would buy their products.

The manufacturer is also apparently not abiding by the GPLv3 license which requires releasing the modified source code to its customers.

did you disconnect everything and just try usb.
You may have broken an external device and thats pulling the flight controller down. Been there done that.

Is it ok ?

Google Photos

What you think , there is 1 dough about near barometer ic are something happen , what’s this ??

Last time it happen but clear memory card and boom it’s running but now nothing happens

Sorry @Moksh
Not sure what your trying to tell us. IS that board working on the USB or not…If not…it’s likely toast. Either the board got damaged or some peripheral device was damaged and it burnt it out.

Yes board working with usb but big one not flashing

And I see very clearly there is no damage

well, the ic footprint near baro its for place a compass, they don’t have placed it.
in my opinion… the board is totally damage

How to say that even io LEDs are working properly :thinking:

Pixhawk fc its a complex board… even led can work, doesn’t mean that also others components may work…

I think that IMU was totally vaporized in the crash. Surely Radiolink would not have built that Pixhawk w/o The 2nd IMU, no precedent for that. No wait, their Mini Pix doesn’t have a FRAM chip. So, par for the course.

I fixed your board.

Radiolink Junk

well, I’ve done a double check… miss the secondary imu…, they don’t have placed it.

Right, their own doucmentation states it’s only an MPU6000. Hopefully you understand I was being sarcastic.

This is funny:
More junk

There is “less interference from Inner Components” because there are less Inner Components :wink:

What , really i don’t understand can you plz tell me in another words ?

Ok , so now I decided buying new one pix , suggest me which one is batter for me (experiment all time)

I was making a joke about RadioLink. The original Mini Pix did indeed have a FRAM chip then they came out with a II version with it removed (cheap out). The “Pixhawk” board you have is a similar situation. They removed the 2nd IMU that is in the Pixhawk reference board and most other Clones of it. Cheap out again.

Here is the HW ID for a cheap Pixhawk 2.4.8 I have in the junk drawer. It’s more advanced than the RadioLink one you have.

No worries…,the quality of the pcb it’s terrible

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When I buy then only one thing is the branded company and company don’t make worse , this is a reason why I buy this junk
After you say couple of time then I understand this is full piece of junk.

Thank you @dkemxr

Can you help me out ? On this forum

Thanks again :slightly_smiling_face:

The last 3 builds I have used boards from Holybro (Kakute F7 and F7-Mini) and Matek H743-Mini. If you want an FC with a housing and connectors that isn’t too expensive the standard PixRacer’s are still good. I have 3. But beware of the newer Clones of these. Some of them also have the 2nd IMU removed. So best choice is get it from Mro. It’s not that much more than the Radiolink Pixhawk.

Personally I wouldn’t buy a new FC if it didn’t have an H7 FC and 2Mb flash. For Pixracer that’s the Pro version which is considerably more expensive. For a larger craft a Matek H743-Wing would be a good choice. There are 3 versions of the board depending on what board size you can fit.