2days ago I crashed tree branches during autotune and fallout from nearly 2m but slow down and pixhawk is under the frame.
Sorry for background sound 
, first time power with USB after power module
Now still pixhawk not working or not responding , whatâs the problem ??
Thank you 
Can you disconnect everything and see if it powers from the USB with nothing connected to it.
Yeah itâs power through usb , external power supply and also outputs side are LEDs are on but main doesnât
And canât connect to the mission planner
well, if during the fall to the ground you have damage the pcb of the fc, you have only trash it.
i suggest you invest for something more robust⌠radiolink manufacturing is really poor.
This is all you need to know about Radiolink. I donât know why anyone supporting Ardupilot would buy their products.
The manufacturer is also apparently not abiding by the GPLv3 license which requires releasing the modified source code to its customers.
did you disconnect everything and just try usb.
You may have broken an external device and thats pulling the flight controller down. Been there done that.
Is it ok ?
What you think , there is 1 dough about near barometer ic are something happen , whatâs this ??
Last time it happen but clear memory card and boom itâs running but now nothing happens
Sorry @Moksh
Not sure what your trying to tell us. IS that board working on the USB or notâŚIf notâŚitâs likely toast. Either the board got damaged or some peripheral device was damaged and it burnt it out.
Yes board working with usb but big one not flashing
And I see very clearly there is no damage
well, the ic footprint near baro its for place a compass, they donât have placed it.
in my opinion⌠the board is totally damage
How to say that even io LEDs are working properly 
Pixhawk fc its a complex board⌠even led can work, doesnât mean that also others components may workâŚ
I think that IMU was totally vaporized in the crash. Surely Radiolink would not have built that Pixhawk w/o The 2nd IMU, no precedent for that. No wait, their Mini Pix doesnât have a FRAM chip. So, par for the course.
I fixed your board.
well, Iâve done a double check⌠miss the secondary imuâŚ, they donât have placed it.
Right, their own doucmentation states itâs only an MPU6000. Hopefully you understand I was being sarcastic.
This is funny:
There is âless interference from Inner Componentsâ because there are less Inner Components 
What , really i donât understand can you plz tell me in another words ?
Ok , so now I decided buying new one pix , suggest me which one is batter for me (experiment all time)
I was making a joke about RadioLink. The original Mini Pix did indeed have a FRAM chip then they came out with a II version with it removed (cheap out). The âPixhawkâ board you have is a similar situation. They removed the 2nd IMU that is in the Pixhawk reference board and most other Clones of it. Cheap out again.
Here is the HW ID for a cheap Pixhawk 2.4.8 I have in the junk drawer. Itâs more advanced than the RadioLink one you have.
No worriesâŚ,the quality of the pcb itâs terrible
When I buy then only one thing is the branded company and company donât make worse , this is a reason why I buy this junk
After you say couple of time then I understand this is full piece of junk.
Thank you @dkemxr
Can you help me out ? On this forum
Thanks again 
The last 3 builds I have used boards from Holybro (Kakute F7 and F7-Mini) and Matek H743-Mini. If you want an FC with a housing and connectors that isnât too expensive the standard PixRacerâs are still good. I have 3. But beware of the newer Clones of these. Some of them also have the 2nd IMU removed. So best choice is get it from Mro. Itâs not that much more than the Radiolink Pixhawk.
Personally I wouldnât buy a new FC if it didnât have an H7 FC and 2Mb flash. For Pixracer thatâs the Pro version which is considerably more expensive. For a larger craft a Matek H743-Wing would be a good choice. There are 3 versions of the board depending on what board size you can fit.
