I would run the ESC calibration again after making the MOT changes.
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Not right, esc calibrate like Dave said. I would also remove the 1980’s isolation plate.
Done repeatedly, same result. i guess i need different ESCs then.
Done and Done. i heard you needed em. but i know how to take advice.
I’m happy with using 1100kv motors @ 4s and 10x4,5 props.
You’re ignoring the the manufacturer’s specifications. What happens in on you. I’m outta here…
Where?
sorry i offended you somehow
I think for 1100’s i would try 7" or 8" props, I use 960 kv for 8" 9" to 10"
Well, let’s put things in perspective here. Those iFlight motors can produce big power and spin 3 blade 1045 props on 4S (manufacturer spec) easily so a 12"prop on 3S is actually reasonable. It’s a low pitch cheap plastic prop to boot. Depending on Take-off-weight (not specified) I see no problem with this. OK high thrust:weight but that can be dealt with. His battery is crap anyway so add more mass with a new battery of larger capacity.
And regarding the FC mount, hard mounting can work fine on a rigid frame with an FC with some internal isolation but that’s far from what we have here. 3D printed parts make for a wet noodle frame so some isolation will be required IMO.
There are many examples of this. This is one recent one where the it went from unflyable hard mounted (Cube black) to not so bad on a big ball mount.
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I would not use 12" props even on a 960kv and i would never use that iso pad just my 2 cents. But by all means go for it.
possibly you never made a good 3D printer frame like i have. 
amazing what 100% infill can do!!!
i dont know why everyone is harping on the isopad. i get it. however, i doubt the isopad put it rocket mode though. that being said, i said i would take it out, and i did. i rebuilt it with the FC in the middle and battery will ride topside. that way i will have a ton more room for a bigger better battery.
i am getting smaller props even though lack of thrust is not an issue. and as much as i hate to spend the money, new different ESCs seem to be in order. i am actualy taking advice here.
Yes, that’s certainly true!
" amazing what 100% infill can do!!!" I would not know I use a custom process that uses a honeycomb infill with a 2mm wall very strong.
It is. You may have a problem with the compass sitting on top of the battery but see what happens when it’s calibrated.
Yea I would move it down below deck mostly for cg reasons.
I wonder if any changes has been added to the firmware. I lost what i think is normal ground effect on my last bird. I going to test the ground effect option in the config and turn it off to see if it better once the rain stops.
Basically it the motors do not spin up normally you have a calibration/radio issue.
that certainly is an option. i dont want the battery slapping into the ground on the next flight though. thats why i have it ridding topside right now.
Maybe… we will see how the internal compass and it get along. i could print a STURDY block to mount the GPS a couple inches above the battery. but it may go bottom side in the end.
how do i reset the parameters to defaults and start over?
This is always a good idea. what you do is save the config and reset to defaults. do not change the pids keep them stock. make sure the motors spin up without changes after you calibrate. possibly try a better 32 bit esc.
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Or crappy ESCs… I hooked up to a servo tester they seem about the same speed as the controler both at the top and bottom end. I have repeated the ESC calibration. the radio is configured properly (i think). the motors are decent quality. the ESCs really have my attention.