This is more than likely a simple fix for most people, but I have somehow got myself into some trouble with my battery monitoring situation. I have a matek slim FC and a speedybee v3 4in1 ESC. I kind of made a Frankenstein FPV thing for some testing, I know its odd.
I have been flying this monstrosity very well actually, sensors working and all, but I had noticed my battery voltage reading was stubbornly incorrect. It was always showing 9 or 10v when Im using a 6S battery.
I set up the mandatory section with the airscrew size and cell count, but I did not ever touch the “battery monitor” section until now because In my brain I do not have a battery monitor. That is where my confusion exists, I have read that the ESC can handle some of that, and the param setting would be “9” which is ESC. Though when I do that, then try and type in the voltage it says incorrect parameter.
To be more to the point, has anyone had experience with this? Someone with my set up, specifically using a 4in1 ESC, how would I fill out those sections of the “battery monitor” section.
Strangely after this issue, all my battery settings are going nuts, I keep getting warnings that my battery is not set up properly, and my ESC is even heating up when connected to the battery. So as you can imagine my copter is dead until I can sort this out. Which is weird because It seems that if I could have just left it alone I would be flying like I was without issue. If I could even get back to that I would be happy. Thank you to whomever may be helping this poor soul.
Check your ESC manual, it should have the four motor signals, plus ground, Vbat, and current sensor signal (which is a variable voltage). Make sure these are connected properly.
Assuming I’m looking at the right manual, your ESC does not support telemetry so you’d want to use the “analog voltage and current” option.
Read Power Monitor/Module Configuration in Mission Planner — Copter documentation for more info.
Speedybee has replaced Airbot as the king of bad documentation. But on the plus side the stuff is cheap. Assuming you think that’s a plus.
Thanks for the reply, the weird thing was that my set up used to work just fine. I ended up just reflashing and starting over from scratch and now its working just fine again, using the “analog voltage and current” setting as a default, like you said.
I would venture to say I screwed something up somewhere and just couldn’t find it, but after looking through the params I could not find where I went wrong anywhere, everything looked the same as my problematic file I saved. I would say its possible it was a bug, but more than likely I just did not find where I screwed up. Thanks for the reply though, sorry it took me a bit to get back to this.
Truer words have never been spoken. Speedybee is an ABSOLUTE nightmare. You have no idea the experience I have had with them lol. I have dozens of email back n fourth and THREE defective ESCs. Finally I just got my money back from them, I should say that was with the V2, I had a V3 as well that has never had problems. Apparently the V2 was cursed and they just didn’t want to recall them. I have heard so so many stories of peoples experiences with the entire V2 stack being plagued with issues. The V3 isn’t bad, but still, stay away from SpeedyBee, dealing with them was a nightmare.