T200 has too much current draw. Do I need to change wires or replace battery?

I have bought a PM07. It comes with this XT60 plug and 12AWG wires.

The plug and wires are rated for 30A continuous current. I am going to build a boat with two T200 thrusters, connected to a 16V battery.

At 16v, one T200 thruster at full throttle, draws 24 Amps. Two motors draws 48 Amps. Does that mean that I need to replace that wire?

The battery itself uses 12 AWG wires. What do I do here? Do I need to get a different battery?

This is my battery:

12awg will be fine, your not doing long cable runs and you are not running at full power continuously, racing quads pull over 120A in bursts with those connectors. just make sure the connectors are always clean and dry, any dirt or corrosion and then you start having problems.

if you want to run at high power for long periods of time then you could upgrade to a XT90 but I dont think you would need it.

Your battery is 16ah@15c giving you 240A max its more than adequate for what you want do.

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That is a relief. But the battery has an EC5 plug connected to a 18 AWG EC5-XT60 cable. Do you think this one needs replacing? I also have a 14AWG splitter. The only other thing the battery is connected to through the splitter, is a low power telemetry device. So I am now mostly worried about the 18 AWG EC5-XT60 cable.

18 is a little thin, if the battery has a EC5 on it just get a EC5 for the pdb and keep the adapter for charging. 14 is still a little thin, the problem with boats is there is zero airflow compared to aircraft, so things will get hot much faster since they have no cooling airflow.

This is how my setup was supposed to look like. Do you advice me to keep all cables minimum 12 AWG?

why are you using a splitter? just wire the telemetry to the pdb.

Because battery is 14.8v, I have to use a 9V voltage regulator.

so wire the regulator to the PDB.

If it possible, I will. But where should I wire it?

any B+ and ground pads around the board will work, thats what they are there for.

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Ahh, I did actually think of that. But I wasn’t sure if it was ok to do it without using “M”. Good to know :smile: Then i would just need to get rid of the 18 AWG wire and replace it with a 12 AWG one, right?

Correct, you just need wire and connector to match your battery directly to the PDB without any adapters or splitters. if you need power for anything get it from the Power Distribution Board thats what its there for.

also drawing power before the power module is a bad idea as the current used wont register on the power module on the pdb.

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Thanks a lot. You obviously know a lot about these things. Do you not recommend getting something like this?


Then I would not need to remove the already soldered cable.

One thing I dont really understand is, the signal wire from ESC is soldered on to the PDB. How does the PDB then transfer the signal over to Pixhawk? I am guessing its from one of these


But do you know which one it is?

thats better than what you were using, it should be ok since it doesnt use any wire.

im not familiar enough with pixhawk 4 but I would assume its one of those ports probably top right.

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Thanks a lot for your help. You’ve been really helpful. :100:

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Im running a couple of T200’s at 20v
i suspect you’ll find you wont be running them at 100% power as your hull will have a sweet spot at a lower speed setting - ie more power doest give more speed.

If you are concerned about power - then build up your speed and power slowly - stopping to feel the wires and connections. Warm is ok - hot is telling you there is a problem.

I put a lot of thought into how to cool the ESC’s - if you are putting in 48Amps - then the heat has to go somewhere - so ideally not in a small air tight box.

Good luck with your boat.

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Is it possible to tune the speed/power from the ground station? I dont need or want 100% power, but I want to tune it to prevent any accidents. Ive also thought about cooling, but so far not had any good ideas

you can limit the pwm values to the escs using the SERVOx_max to limit their power.

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This will work to some extent in manual mode, but what about when using autopilot?

Is there a way to limit the ESC current draw?