The M600 battery config is the same as stock. If you lose the one of the 2 series batteries, I believe the drone ESC’s will shit down and leading to a crash.Auto tune is good to ok from one ship to the next. We added 15lbs to the M600 after autotune with no issue whats so ever.
I have manage to hack the dji m600 esc to work with the pixhawk and it will work with any flight controller now. its not really straight forward plug and play… the esc will look for certain command from the a3 through the rs485… the esc will only recognise the m600 a3 and not any other a3.
malex_sky, would you be willing to share how you did it?
Hi markagate, i basically upload the original firmware of the 1240x esc into the m600 esc… you will need the usb rs485 converter…
Did you have problems on your S900 with the ESC blinking and beeping? All of mine on my S900 are just blinking and beeping even after arming the copter and I can’t figure that out. Any help would greatly be appreciated
NTP Powerline Tethered Drone absolutely fantastic “Franken Drone” M600 with Pixhawk 2.0 FC.
Proof as he said it can be done! Let us resurrect this thread.
There are bound to be plenty of airframes available at a discount from insurance claims.
OK full disclosure, I am very much interested, but my C++ programming skills are not developed. So the whole most important part of this project is not yet my expertise. How I do plan to accomplish? I am just now exploring this option, power distribution/management and propulsion technology from DJI with open source flight control and groundstation technology. Once fully integrated, no more firmware nightmares from China.
Fuel for thought!
Nope, haven’t had that issue. I chose X6 frame. I do remember that if I tried to calibrate the ESCs from Mission Planner, I had an issues (but cant remember what the issue was). I then just used the DJI tool to reflash their standard firmware to their ESCs (I was using the E1200 propulsion system).
I have had an issue with an older pixhawk (may or may not be related), but it would not stop ESCs from blinking and beeping even when armed and it was due to the IO firmware doing something strange. I had to flash to Ardurover, then back to arducopter and all was ok.
Sorry, I’m not much help with this.
Very Nice Michael
So the M600 batteries are inserted as a ‘backup’ should your tether solution fail? Just curious
No sir this product is the design efforts of Mr. Charles Spoto, Owner of NTP. See above posts for his descriptions.
I would hope to follow his lead and exchange DJI flight controller for Pixhawk on a M600 airframe.
Thanks for the reply Jason. I figured out my problem. I am new to Pixhawk but not the A2 controller. I was using the JR connectors on my wires that go from the Pixhawk to the Power Distribution board. I had the polarity correct on the Pixhawk but not the PDB. They all were all backwards. Had I been using the Futaba wire connectors I would have eliminated that problem so instead, I feel really stupid. I will carry on with trying to work out the PID settings this week. I am sure there will be more dumb stuff coming. Thanks again Jason!
I am currently trying to build a larger payload drone. I have been looking into building up an S1000+ using Pixhawk and the here+ rtk GPS module. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to look to get a proper parts lists etc?
I am new to the drone arena and am trying to build a large payload drone package using Pixhawk. Do you have any advice on where to start, parts lists, etc?
I’d suggest watching a couple of YouTube videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YoYuPMXvjc
To see what others have done, and get some ideas. Then ask about specifics.
are there any updates on activities integrating the Pixhawk FC on an M600 airframe?
I’m planning to do so. Therefore I would be glad for some information on the communication interfaces, protocols or messages used between the A3 and the batteries or the ESCs resp. (iBat and iESC buses). Does anyone of you has information about that?
Throw away all dji electronics. Keep motors and ESC’s only.
ESC’s are normal PWM 1100-1900 range.
Batteries must be replaced as well, since iBat is not public. (alternatively you can use them as normal batteries but must switch on one-by-one.)