Motor Pinion & Prop Gear Sloppy Mesh Fix - with Bonus

Finally the gears are back in stock with the motor kits for the v2450 at sky viper spare parts page. I grabbed a few sets.

Itā€™s smaller than the v2450 ( pinion gear)

One for each prop. Top side under the big gear. When you drill the hole for the bearing seat it should be only deep enough to fit the bearing. I drilled one of them too deep and it still worked ok. To deep and you are removing material you need for prop shaft support. I used the non-flange bearing. I bought flange bearings also, but they are not a good solution because of the flange. Be careful. The bit will want to dig into the plastic. As I drilled the bushing came out the other side, but I had to push out a couple of them. So you can remove the bushing and shorten it to make up for the bearing. You need enough bushing to support the c-clip end of the shaft. Cut slightly more than the depth of the bearing and re-insert until flush at the bottom. Try to get a good finish on the bushing since the drilling and cutting tends to rough it up and deform it. I used a dremel tool to cut the bushing to length. There was no change in flying time, but it is quieter and has less vibration. Good luck. Sorry for the late reply as I donā€™t check the email account for this group very often.

Regards, Tim

1 Like

Curious if you have a link or spec for the bearings you used? thxā€¦

As I recall they are basic metal 2.5x5mm bearings. Hereā€™s a link. Been a while since I ordered them, but this looks familiar. Do not use the flange bearing as there is little clearance between prop gear and frame. You will notice vibrations decrease, flight time stays the same.

https://www.avidrc.com/product/1/bearings/174/2x5x25-Metal-MR52ZZ-bearings.html

Thanks! I picked up several replacement frames, one of which I will keep brushed. I measure the prop shaft at 1.8mm? Am going to try a different bearing number and will let you kinow. No flange tho! ;- ) Consistent motor to motor power delivery is my main goal here. Vibration reduction is keyā€¦se

Good luck. Be careful drilling the plastic since the bit will want to grab and pull. Fixture and drill press would be best. I did it by hand with 5mm bit. I probably didnā€™t get a good centerline.

Off topic: I have more than one of the v2450GPS that have unstable yaw. Even when sitting still. View the web page System Status-IMU and the yaw is counting up or down especially after making a move. This causes the drone to rotate while in flight. In a short time it will move 10 to 30 degrees so stick actions become confusing. The only work around I can imagine is going to Super Simple Mode.

Any ideas?

Thanks, Tim

1 Like

Hey Tim, I have had similar issues. When you say ā€œsitting still/making a moveā€ you mean while hovering? Do you get the same fluctuation in readings when it is on the ground? I noticed one of my quads arms vibrating excessively while hovering (bent prop shaft). The stability of the sensors seems quite vulnerable to vibration, and the hold performance (all sensors) has improved after straightening/balancing and bracing the arms with a strut system. Oh, and after getting through all mag/accel calibration. nā€™joy! se
p.s I do understand about drilling plastic, as I once sold and repaired HDPE sea kayaks. Yes on the press if can. Step Drill? Three fluted bit? Dremel w/grinder bit? Or most likely, carve it out with an Xacto knife?!? Iā€™ll let you know what seems to work out best. Thanks again.

Iā€™ve had vibration issues and the bearings helped. As to yaw instability the answer is yes to both your questions. When unarmed you can see the yaw data moving either negative or positive while the viper sits still or if you move it by hand the yaw data keeps moving even after the viper is still. While hovering this yaw instability is translated as constant slow rotation. This rotation also occurs while flying which really screws with your head since you assume itā€™s flying straight. As this yaw happens the pitch and roll orientation swap from the pilot point of view.

I like the viper, but itā€™s not robust. I think the high temp camera board under the main board is cooking the IMU.