I am now not using any capacitors or pull up/down resistors. its all working well. I feel feel the Garmin products are not specifically for what we use them for, that is not for ardupilot. I think getting the different lidar was not actually a waste of money.
having said that, I would recommend using dedicated power supplies for these devices since they are sensors hence you want to make sure they are given a reasonable power supply in order to trust the data.
DC grounding is about making sure all the devices have the same “ground” so that the signals are relative to the same ground.
Hi Spectre,
I just looked at your diagram from last year. My understanding is that the Power 1 and 2 on the Pixhawk is for input so that you have redundancy. you should connect your 5V BEC directly to the 12-16V battery supply, not via the flight controller.
David K
UAV Engineer/Aerosmith
so 5V @ 3A -> 15Watt. That will need a big heat sink. I know that the LiDar Lite V3 consumes about 130ma, @ 5V(or 0.65 Watt). The Pixhawk module and peripherals can draw up to 2.75A @ 5V, which translates to 13.75 Watt Adding a large capacitor can help with charging and discharging the AMP to drive your circuits, but can also increase the ripples if not using one with lowest ESR. What is the purpose of 5.35V BEC1?
That is exactly what i wound up doing. I for sure learned to power the sensors separate on this project. bec 1 is now for pixhawk cube and radio transmitter/receiver only. Second bec powers the gimbal and lidar/flow sensors but also connects to pixhawk power 2 for a backup. The current on both bec’s is now under 3 amps max draw. I did put a 680uf cap on the lightware just in case it needed it. I may give the garmin a go again on another project with a cube soon, hopefully it will go much more smooth this time.
is very noisy due to its switching’s harmonics. These harmonics can couple to your I2C bus and disrupt the communication. I have wrap it with copper foil to suppress the harmonics down to noise floor. I bet your BEC is not much different from the one I cited above.
I changed all mine up to hall effect from maunch since he makes ones strictly for the cube and i havent had any issues with them since. Good stuff. I heard of this issue from these forums before and I decided to ditch the one that came with the cube. Plus i was running xt90 connectors and more amps than that can handle.
Crashes happen when we keep using the wrong hardware/part due to lack of knowledge and lower cost parts! Good firmware/software makes hardware looks good. but bad hardware can never make firmware/software good?
GoFast124
Thank you so much for this information!!!
I tried everything to make the lidar work with the pixhawk 4 holybro and ardupilot but couldnt do it.
I tried garmin Lidar V3 and the HP version as well as a teraranger evo 60m. No chance with ardupilot.
Works perfectly fine on px4.
How do i get this firmware you are talking about?
By any chance can u send it to me?
PX4 is the hardware definition that runs the ardupilot.
Pixhawk is a name of a product which ran the ardupilot. Pixhawk 2 was then released but has been renamed Cube from ProfiCNC. Pixhawk 3 was something else (with its own silly marketing story) and Pixhawk 4 is again a marketing name for a product that is based on the PX4 hardware. the numbers are all un-related. Pixhawk 4 is not a later version of Pixhawk 2.
I am currently trying out a Matek f405 wing which worked without any problems.
yes, this is a plane firmware. I don’t have one for copter. I thought Tridge would have shown up in this convo by now. Andrew Tridge? or someone who knows the releases of Ardupilot. I’ll try to get some info today.
At least you should be able to see the airspeed and altitude numbers moving and showing you that the problem is not with your hardware (or your sanity)
