Check your sensor output with a multimeter. Sensor out voltage must be less than 3.3V and you must see that with different battery there is a different sensor output.
Also in mission planner you must select proper board type (Pixhawk / Pixracer / etc).
It is always 5.2 volts or it depends on battery level?
Anyway this isn’t looks correct because maximum voltage must not exeeds 3.3V (or that module is not for pixhawk).
I’ve seen similar issues and unless the battery monitor is defective, the root cause has always been a miss wired 6 position cable.
When a “good” cable is laid out flat, one end will have the connector pin locking tabs facing UP and the other end will have the “blank” side of the connecter facing up…
Cable and pinout looks good.
But after removing he shrinkwrap I think I spotted the problem https://imgur.com/Qb3zkP6
Two caps seems to make contact because of sloppy soldering.
Might explain why PIN 4 gives me over 5.5V
But PIN 3 seems to work good though
Gonna try to fix that and see what happens
EDIT: Never mind, I looked at the old one and it doesnt matter if they’re touching since they’re on the same trace.
And I also tested PIN4 on the old Power Module and I saw that it’s on over 5.5V too?
I’m not gonna cheap out on those next time.
It could cost me a crashed quad if I do
EDIT:
After some research, I found that the power modules are not based on the open source 3dr power modules but something else, probably cheaper parts and stuff.
I’ll make sure to buy a genuine 3dr power module now
I’ve had a couple of these dud power modules. It seems the pin that should output about 1/10 the voltage is actually outputting Vcc. That gets multiplied be about 10 to give the 50 volts.
Not all cheap power models are duds though. I’ve bought a few from “wi-model2” on eBay and they have all worked fine and cost only £3.50.
I ordered one from wi-model2 and it’s now working!
This one had much more quality to it. Escpecially since it used silicone cables which the other power modules did not.