I can't bypass safety switch!


All working well. I have set the EK2_IMU_MASK to 0 as my boat can’t be still when i boot the FC. However sometimes(when battery is very low) FC restarts randomly. and middle of the water i can not arm the device because of the hard ware safety switch.

Should i physically disconnect the safetry switch from the FC? I know it is a suggested failsafe but i can’t risk the boat!

here is my parameters!V3.param (13.3 KB)

Second question : I have ordered a real ublox unit (neo8) from banggood(radio link neo 8mn with compass). It is a genuine product (real ublox module). And probably the best gps for the buck. However i don’t want to use the compass. I want to blend the gps’s.

But my initial gps is neo 6m fake unit. So they are not the same products. What do you suggest? Would gps blend give better results with 2 different supported gps units?

Today had 10 satellites with 1.0 hdop, it really didn’t have much drift. 3d gps lock was quite stable. But ordered anyways because my unit can only find 10 sats. I believe the results will be much better.

Any suggestions?

you can toggle safety state in mission planner with the ctrl + F menu.

However I would strongly suggest you fix the cause of your random reboots.

If you disconnect the safety switch don’t forget to change BRD_SAFETYENABLE. My opinion is one good GPS with compass should be good. Have you had a problem arming while bobbing around in the water? Up until now I have armed on shore and then sent the boat out on the water. In the near future I will be powering it up and launching from a people boat and I am unsure if it will boot up properly. I can simulate this however in shallow water which I may do.

Brd safety enable to 0
And on configuration, arming check i will uncheck the safety switch.

I believe it is because of the drained battery. I have SLA battery so voltage doesn’t drop that much. I usually lose the telemetry. Andf not i see apm initializing messages. It must be battery related.

You can set INS_GYR_CAL to 0 to skip the gyro calibration on boot, it will just use the last calibrated value, this means you don’t have to be still, should allow to boot on the water.

1 Like

I will not remove the safety switch from the pixhawk.
I will try the parameters now. Setting INS GYRO calibration to 0 will disable the gyro calibration at boot.

Yes i had lots of issues. I was trying to launch the boat after deploying it. I kept seeing gyro messages. Took my many hours to understand the issue. If you will launch it on water i think you should set it to 0.

Okay I will replace the gps module then. 10 sats with 1.0 hdop is good enough for me. At 2.5 everything gets unstable.

I simply don’t want to remove the safety switch. But want to by pass it. Let me play with the parameters now.

My ground speed looks like 2.5m/s when the device is perfectly still on my bench. then it fals to 0 to 0.30.

I clicked the tuning page. saw my gyro values are not stable. Why does this happen? Should i re-calibrate my accels?

That’s probably GPS not having any type of good lock I would think.

1 Like

I forgot about that. That’s putting the boat into boat mode.:stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

1 Like

I did a gyro calib now. Now the values vary between 0.00 to 0.08 m/s for AS and VS. That’s normal right?

I can get max 0.9 hdop. Made the beta coefficient for velocity correction to 0.001(lowest value)

I would replace the 6M modules with the M8N. Blending the 6M and M8N would be pointless in my opinion.

I will then once the part is arrived. It is this one. People reports good performance

Btw do you think this 0.00 to 0.08m/s speed up and downs are normal?

I have read just as many reports of poor performance with those Radiolink modules.

I don’t understand the question. Your previous post mentioned Gyro calibration. What would that be?

I hope it at least performs better than the current model.

I had the gyro problem. I sorted out. I was launching the boat on the water, not knowing about initial gyro calibration. Now i turned that off. Second point is ground speed is never 0 when the boat is still

I have read this review below, if you are using only pixhawk 4 then it’s ok. I am also interested how it works for you.
This review has one star, but I should add there is 149 with 5 stars.

  • Overall:
  • Price:
  • Quality:
  • Appearance:

2018-06-11 02:34:25

please guys be cautious the radiolink se100 spec’s has been changed by the supplier and the magnetometer chip is not the same as what the specks sheet stated. the se100 will only work on the PX 4 and no other flight controller please be careful before buying this unit

I don’t know what does it mean by PX 4. Pixhawk 2.4.8-2.4.6(pixhawk 1) or latest pix hawk version 4 which is very expensive?

And that comment is quite old. I suppose they returned to a clone Honeywell 5850 something mag. unit.

What ever i ordered one anyways we will see.

My 10 dollars neo6m fake in clear weather performs quite well actually.

It has a QMC5883L mag chip which should work fine with any Ardupilot application. On the other hand the 50cm positional accuracy they claim is BS, concurrent GNSS or not.

I wouldn’t buy it for that claim alone but it should work.

1 Like

Yes 50cm is impossible without RTK or other paid services with base stations.

However my current clone can get max 4 to 6 satellites on some days. Giving 2.5hdop with lots of gps drift. And I am quite hopeful that this unit will give me at least 12 stable satellites with hdop 1 or smaller. And that looks enough for me.

I will test the boat tomorrow on open sea. Battery really lasts very short. Because of high current, heavy boat etc. (20 amps on 40 percent thr). At least 5 amp is spent on carrying the 1.45kg sla and 0.7k second sla. I wish lipo’s were as the same price in USA. I’m sure it would last quite longer than that.

Why are you using 2 batteries?

One is 6V 4.5Ah for odroid xu4 (dc 5V, at load 4A)