When a failsafe triggers, the only way i know off to clear the failsafe is to unplug the batteries. Is there a way to clear the failsafe via a switch in the radio?
Just try a mode change.
I radio failsafe should just clear by itself if the receiver starts working normally again, but if RTL was already triggered as part of the failsafe action, then just select another mode like Loiter.
Even if you get a battery low failsafe you can still change modes and take control (after a RTL action or similar).
I tried but I can’t clear the failsafe.
Maybe it is just telling you that there was a failsafe and maybe that type of failsafe wont clear without a power cycle?? I’d have to test but cant at the moment.
No rush mate. And always thanks for your assistance. You’ve made my copter fly so well. I will never reach this type of tune on my own.
Battery failsafe (undervoltage) can only be cleared with a charged battery. 
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If it is an issue during testing you can also adjust your minimum arming voltage parameter to something like +/-23V to allow for use of a slightly used battery. Of course you’ll need to keep in mind when flying that it was not a fully charged flight-pack.
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The issue is when you first plug in the batteries with FENCE enabled, it takes very long to get a GPS Lock and you don’t want your quad sitting at the middle of the runway waiting for the GPS lock. You want to put it there so it will be the landing point on RTL. Other co-flies gets upset waiting. And the solution that was recommeded is to plug in a USB cable powered by a battery brick to retain the GPS lock till your next flight. So the only long wating time for the GPS lock is the first flight of the day.
But during testing, I found that when the battery failsafe triggers the RTL, there is now way to clear this failsafe aside from chaning the battery… So even if you plug the USB power, the failsafe is not cleared and you cannot arm the quad. This is the reason why I was asking if there is a way to clear this type of failsafe.
But I found a workaround. Still use the same solution (the USB power) but on your next flight, remove the USB Power to clear the failsafe and immediatly plug a fully charged battery. Somewhere somehow, the GPS lock waiting time is fast. I have no explanation but that’s what I observed. So all good now. thanks for all the reactions and recommendations. Much appreciated.
BTW, I just ordered a GPS Mate. I hope this will solve this long wating time for the GPS Lock for all flights of the day. I hope I’m not the only one having this issue.
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With modern GPS receivers like Here3, the wait time is not that long. Maybe your GPS receiver has drained all the backup battery, when this occurs it loss the ability of hotstart, leading to a longer time to first fix.
As mentioned, I have installed a GPS mate that is supplying power to the GPS even if you disconnet the main LiPo battery. Power will only stop to be supplied to the GPS if you turn the GPS mate off or the battery of the GPS mate is drained. I can see that the RED LED in the GPS is ON after removing the mail LiPo battery. And the PPS blue LED is still blinking indicating that a GPS lock is still present in the GPS. So there is no issue for the GPS loosing the lock after the main LiPo battery is disconnected.
After all this troubleshooting I am making, I don’t think the issue of the motors not being able to spin is because of the GPS. The flight controller can be armed by the rudder stick and this is confiemed by the HUD, LED and buzzer. I think the issue is the ESC is still expecting a signal before it will spin. I have a PWM tester but because this is on DSHOT600, I cannot use the PWM tester to find out what the ESC signal wire reads when I can spin them. And what is the ESC Signal when it cannot be spinned. Any idea on how to test this would be great.