thanks, I will cancel and look into the options you listed. Does the manufacturer matter like it does for the PIXHAWK? I know nothing of PIXHACK so that’s why I am asking. I am not sure who makes what or if there’s open sourced or officials available. Or is CUAV the manufacturer, also I am assuming this runs arducopter the same as my PIXHAWK’s (sorry I know dumb questions)?
Thanks, as soon as I posted it, I answered most of my own questions by a simple Google search. I will check it out
No all good questions. CUAV is the manufacturer. they are pretty much the only ones I know that call there unit the pixhack. and yes they run the adrucopter the same firmware that you can install from Mission Planner or QGC.
Perfect, thanks Bill, I was looking at the PIXHACK5 originally (before I asked the 3DR question) but the documentation said it was more for academics and such so I frowned away. BUT the PIXHACK 3 looks awesome, is this suitable and what you are talking about (money isnt a huge deal but anything over 250$ will have to be saved a week or so) and I am one of those, pull the trigger NOW, and dont wait, kind of guys. I usually end up buying 2 products, the first, wrong one (RADIOLINK), then the second, right one (HOLYBRO) but I always end up using everything. For example the PIXHAWKs in my 600 and UAV are because I first bought a knock off (RADIOLINK), then an official (HOLYBRO) because I didnt wait, and didnt research, although I find no differences between them, I still want top of the line for my 700. No way is it worth risking an issue because of saving a few dollars on the FC to go non-official. If my 700 goes down, I am looking at a few hundred minimum at least to fix it. I am trying to get better with that and research more before impulsive buying but I am not perfect yet 
I may still get an original Pixhawk 2.4.6 along with a better one (PIXHACK) for my 700 and use the 2.4.6 in a new build. The way I look at it, you can never have to many FC’s, I have so many helis that one will always need a FC at some point (or for a new custom project). IDK yet but I like to have them on hand when I decide to tinker a new build.
I have great luck with MrO gear. Quality parts and made in USA. There Pixhawk has the 2 m flash, so cu have room to run. Have the Pixhawk and 3 Pixracers from them and have zero problems.
Joe,
I agree that MRO is another company (and a US company to boot) that produces a good product. however, I think the vibration isolation that is offered by either a Pixhawk 2.1 or the Pixhack series controllers provides a better quality signal without requiring 1/4 inch foam pads. I have my pixhack V5 mounted on a thin rubber pad and I get great signal quality (as good as you can get with a heli 
).
Josh, I have nothing against the MRO Pixhawk 1 other than the vibration isolation aspect. So decision is up to you.
Thank you both! I think I will get one of each, starting with the MRO (since its cheaper and I can afford it right now), then go with the PIXHACK in a few months for my 700.
EDIT, maybe not, I might go the PIXHACK now for the 700, then MRO for the UAV later. We shall see, either way though, it will be ardupilot.
Bill, one thing I have been meaning to ask you is regarding the speed the swashplate returns to level (in stabilize mode). Is there a way to soften (or slow down) the return to level or smooth it out a bit? What I am finding on my 700 (well and on my 600 as well), I get a choppy returning to level, this is because I am naturally already leveling it from muscle memory so I am interrupting the process. This seems to cause my bird to teeter a tad (teeter isnt the right word but I dont how else to explain it). When I am in a maneuver (any type of aggressive flying in stabilize mode), it is auto-leveling the birds as it should be, but at the same time I am already recovering it through my normal flight behaviors (muscle memory) so I would like to slow down the return to level in stabilize mode (if that makes sense). Really all I want it to do is to return to level slower than its doing so now so its not trying to level it so quickly. Half the time, I am already into another maneuver and the stabilization is throwing off my moves. I know its the nature of the stabilize flight mode, but I like it for picture taking (but I also still fly them hard for fun). If I could tweak the leveling a bit, I could have it flying so much smoother. I know its the auto-level as when I am not in any type of maneuvers, it returns fine, its only when I am fighting it does it chop up a bit. I am hoping you come back with a parameter to tweak that would slow the leveling.
Josh,
The parameters that control how quickly it attains the commanded attitude whether it is zero attitude or some non zero attitude are the ATC_ACCEL_X_MAX and the ATC_INPUT_TC. The input tc is the one that will soften how quickly it gets to the angular accel (jerk). This might be what you want. You would make the parameter larger. I have my synergy at 0.25. I like that when I make small inputs the aircraft is making smooth attitude changes and not real jittery. Try this first.
Thanks as always Bill! It was ATC_ACCEL_X_MAX I needed to edit, I changed all 3 (P/R/Y). ATC_INPUT_TC felt more like EXPO which I didnt want so I disabled them. I can do DR/EXPO on radio so I tend set them in radio (if/when using DR/EXPO) and not rely on the FC. I am still playing around with my ATC_ settings to get the best “feel” for my 700. My 600 worked pretty much out of the box with default settings (once I understood what to change and not change) but my 700 is a 12S, with longer blades, bigger frame, longer boom, ETC., so this is not as gentle as the smaller 600 (6S) which weighs 1/4th of my 700 so its a work in progress. I make a change, record the results, then continue to tweak until its rock solid, then I note the changes to make for anytime I need to redo the firmware from scratch. I simply plug those settings back in and away we go (I am LOVING the pixhawk and ARDUPILOT)!
Bill one last thing (hopefully), and again, thank you for always helping me and the community!
I finally have my 700 flying exactly how I want her to fly with 1 tiny issue. The issue I am facing is a slight lean to the left (I mean slight), I can still fly her no issues but it interrupts my moves. I have to keep my right stick slightly off to the right to counter the lean, this obviously affects my stunts when I am trying to maneuvers into any forward flight rolls. Does this lean mean the sensors were configured off angle and the FC is trying to level the bird, OR is it a trim issue. I know I can simply trim the left front servo to fix it normally, but my fear is if I trim it, then the FC will struggle to level it (if the issue is the sensor off 90% angle). Is it better to trim, or redo the sensors?
Josh,
I will need more details than what you’ve provided thus far. A log would probably be best so I can see what is going on behind the scenes. the big thing I need to know is what flight mode are you in. Most RC heli’s will require right wing down to hover without drifting. Stabilize takes care of this automatically through the HOVR_ROLL_TRIM parameter. the parameter value in centidegrees is added to the stick request to save the pilot from having to hold stick out of trim. In acro, the pilot has to set the aircraft attitude to maintain zero drift. In this flight mode if you are holding stick out of center then you have some uncommanded angular rate going on. it this case it is most likely that you don’t have your stick trim centered or matching the trim parameter value. Or you don’t have enough Integrator authority and your FC can’t hold trim for you. Either way it is probably easier for me to look at a log. Be sure the LOG_BITMASK is set to 131070.
I will get a better log shortly, its drizzling here but about to clear so I am charging my 12S lipos. I only fly in ACRO mode, here is my param file, I enabled the trainer for the level (but no angle) as I like the leveling but still have full control over the swash. Ignore the notes on the filename, I add notes for myself on what I change per param file so I know what works and what doesnt.TREX-700-NB2-GOLD-ATC_ANGLE_BOOST-DISABLED-ATC_ANG-PIT.param (23.4 KB)
Also I use NO trim in my radio, I trim everything through the params.
Then this could be just an AHRS_TRIM_X adjustment to make what the flight controller thinks is level match the aircraft attitude.
Thanks, I will check into those settings next. I just flew, changed my LOG_BITMASK to 131070. Do I need to do anything to the log file (.bin file) or just upload it here? Should I care about anything pertaining to GPS locations or no? I dont really care if users know where I fly but let me know. This flight was nothing fancy, I tried to keep it as plain and simple as possible (but I did do a few moves to test out the latest settings in the param file I posted above). This is dead on, exactly how I like it to fly (once I fix the left lean). There was no wind, nor outside forces, it is definitely leaning slightly to the left, I did 3 individual tests, I hovered it high enough to avoid washout or ground affect, then let go of the sticks, in every case, it leaned to the left (canopy to the front, tail to the read) and it slowly leans to the left.
I don’t think so, unless you are breaking FAA rules in some way. You can PM me with the data if you like.
Thanks, here is the .bin file, note, I am about to fly again shortly (finishing the charge) but I think I fixed it (unless you come back with something in the log file). I edited the trim on servo one +15PWM, this seemed much better and more stable but I only had a partial flight. I will report back shortly if its solved or not. In regards to the FAA, I am registered (displaying the ID# on canopy and tail), plus I have written permission in the college where I fly, they love watching me fly, I am there anywhere from 1-10 times a day (depending on work and the weather). The college is a county college so its monitored by the police and even they gave me the A-OK so I fly there as often as I can.
CRAP the log file is to big, and error’d on the upload. Let me test the latest change then report back, if its still bad, I will upload to Google and share it out.
Also a personal preference type question but what module do you personally recommend for Bluetooth ground control? I ask because its a royal pain in the butt to make a change, drive to the college, test, shoot its a bad change, revert on my laptop. Either driving home to revert, or lug my laptop to the field so I would love to make tweak changes on the fly with my Pixel 3 (Android, I already have QGC for Android installed).