Hello I’m ordering the parts yet I had an issue with the procurement of the Century boat.
Is this one suitable?
https://www.hepsiburada.com/double-horse-7006-uzaktan-kumandali-surat-teknesi-p-OYUNREEL7006
much expensive with brushed motors maybe there is a better option that is big?
Okay this is almost 1 meter. much better imho. will replace battery with 5000mah 3s xt 60 lipo.
I bought this one. Hopefully it is 1 meter. much better for deploying companion pc, sensors etc and camera.
And since i will use this on open waters it will get less effected by waves.
price is 100 usd
I just ordered 3dr Telemetry 433mhz in order to control the missions from Ground Control(laptop)
Odroid will only use the gps data from pixhawk and will do it’s own mission via 3G modem.
Can you refer me to documentation or tutorial on how to connect the (motors are brushed)ESC to the autopilot system. boat is 7006 by Double Horse, and acquired as everything else.
I think this will be a separate steering and throttle boat (aka Ackermann steering) so the steering/rudder servo will be connected to the flight controller’s MAIN OUT 1 and the motor ESC will be connected to MAIN OUT 3. It’s written on the wiki though… so…
Thanks. The 7006 lacks rudder and motors are fixed. Will i be making a rudder? (I thought it would be running on skid steering) Thanks for the reply. And is there any detailed export on esc wiring. Thanks
Ah, ok. Skid steering should also work. The setup is on that same page linked above. there’s no more specific wiring setup instructions I think.
Thank you. I hope I will figure out esc part. I get everything about pix hawk very detailed explanations. My esc is not fancy and stock lets see. I’m waiting for the xt60 power module to arrive.
Do i have to buy the BEC? Thanks for the support
I don’t think a BEC will be required if the flight controller came with a power module (which it probably did)
This is the set. Plus xt60 generic power module. Thanks. Will 4s 25c 5000mah lipo do fine? I really don’t have any spec sheet for the motors, all i know they are 540 and brushed. Also some pwm cables are short, is there are a safe way to extend them?
Is it possible to use pix hawk in a waterproof casing? Thanks again
The ESC/motor/battery included in that boat kit appears to be a regular RC car battery which is normally 7.2 volts (aka 2S). I suspect it won’t be happy with a 4S battery.
It is 650 grams very heavy 20cm NiCd says 12V 1900MaH on it. It is really heavy. Should I connect it to the amp/volt meter? Product says 25 miles per hour. How can I be precise? It is in xt60 form. Or should i connect the motor while working to an amp/volt meter?
Hello. Stock battery is 12V nicd.
Here is my esc: https://i.hizliresim.com/grpm2Z.jpg
https://i.hizliresim.com/7adR7P.jpg
I really don’t think I can connect pix hawk to my stock ESC 
no PWM connection I think i’ll be stock on my battery.
I’ll test my motors voltage soon. Should i just 1 this for 2 motors. good price imho. supports lipo nicd nimh
https://www.promodelhobby.com/urun/fircali-80a-320a-rc-esc-7-2v-16v-fanli-2s-4s
12V is a 3S battery which is a very common voltage.
I’m unable to open the pictures of the ESCs…
Sorry for the links. They only work in Turkey i guess.
Thank you. Everyday I learn something important.
I bought a digital multimeter. I’ll test motor voltage and amper draw.
There is a 20 bucks esc with pwm out for 1 motor. I guess I’ll get it. It has jumpers to set lipo nimh nicd.
Is there a diagram about x60 power module, 2 esc 2 motor, 1 battery (or 2 same batteries?). I’m a bit confused. I’m a total newbie. Stock esc looks worthless and probably will burn after a long ride. I have heatsinks ready for the motors. After buying the esc I’ll start wiring stuff and open a new progress topic with pics.
One more question: cables are short for pix hawk. I will have 2 servos on top of the boat for gimball.anr other stuff. İs there a safe way to extend cables?
I plan to use a plywood that will just fit the middle for pix hawk, gps compass on front, batteries behind. I also ordered the anti vibration pad for pixhawk plus telemetry 433mhz kit.
Stock esc
Thank you. I highly appreciate your help
Multi metre said the battery is 6.52V after charging it says 13V…
Now I’ll run the boat for the 1st time and check the motors
it’s not too hard or dangerous to extend the 3-pin PWM cables. It’s also possible to just buy PWM cable extenders. They have a hood on one end and then the regular connector on the other end.
Hi again. Lidar’s cable is also a bit short. Should get ic2 extenders?
Test the nicd battery it says 15.6Amp.13.5V
It must be 15A discharge 12V battery. After a little bit of research i opt out from LiPo as they are dangerous and I don’t need the boat to run for 2 hours continuously. I don’t want to risk a fire.
I think NiMh batters are good but after seeing that this nicd shows 15A on the multimeter, nimh may not be able to provide this amperage.
Since I’ll buy 2 separate esc’s. Maybe i should get 2 nimhs at 12v. Would the tx60 power module work? Or does it have to be LiPo?
What is your suggestion? Buy another 650 gr brick of 1900 mah nicd? I did some weigh testing. Boat can take 4kg easily without sinking a bit. (92cm long)
Thank you. I’m a bit confused about 2 batteries in 1 power module. Do i need paralel connection?
After seeing that page is ready many times and shows up in google even tho i’m searching something else, I decided to write this for a future reference as i’m sure same questions would be asked by many who wants to build their autonom rc boats. please take the notes below into consideration
Lessons earned in hard way
Don’t buy a cheap GPS/compass unit from ebay or aliexpress etc. I know you are tempted to buy it from there as they are very cheap but you will regret it! GPS and compass are really imporant and those knock off will kill lots of time and will produce bad results. I highly recommend going after the https://store.mrobotics.io/product-p/gps001-mr.htm or similar products from the site! They ship world wide!
Have your design before buying the RC boat. Well the rc boat i chose was very cheap. It works well since it is very big(92cm) but isolating it was an issue! the shafts were very low quality. I had to replace the shafts. (it was no easy task). it was designed to go in forward only. which is not supported by arduboat! props were spinning off. becuase they were self-locking!. I had to make replacements! If you know who can build one, i think best approach is to build your own boat!
Buy the telemetry link. It looks like an optional one but it is a mandatory one really!
Don’t use the sdcard coming with pixhawk. It is fake. it says 16gb but it is only 100mb. replace it already!
Learn how to perform wire twisting and emf shielding.
Use supported APsyncs or OSes for your companion PC. Mavlink protocol is no easy job for a beginner to pull from pixhawk.(coordinates etc)
Mode 1 and mode 2 are differen’t positioning of thr and steer. I had no idea. There is a v2 of turnigy 9x. make your research before buying!. I had no issues tho!
I used lidar instead of sonar and it performed well actually. Sonar is quite a different experience on water then it is on ground. It was not recommended, I’m glad i went with lidar!
If using burshed motors, don’t try to save 5 bucks on passive heatsink coolers. buy one with a fan! I had no idea those small 540 12v motors would draw 40 amps. yes 40 amps. they get really hot. as they get how they perform worse and they create more EMF etc
use 100nF capacitors on each terminal of the motors if they are brushed. If removes the arcs and noise. less RF interference. they are quite important.
all those periherals have differnt wiring for APM and Pixhawk. I had to change the adapters to make things work.i.e video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nLe9_2Fyok
hope this helps some people
That was well said for someone looking to get into the Arduboat experience.
Thank you so much for these tips!
