1st post to this community so please excuse if I’m doing this wrong. I’ve reviewed a couple of the topics that already exist on this but haven’t make any progress. Here are the basics of my quadcopter.
Pixhawk 2.4.8 running fmuv2 firmware (this unit is 4-5 years old so I picked this version)
S500 frame
Motors: Readytosky RS-2212-920kv
ESCs: Readytosky 40A 2-6s lipo
Battery: Venom 4 cell Lipo 7000Mah
Transmitter: flysky FS-i6
I’ve always had some trouble with the Quad seemingly losing power to one of the rotors, flipping and crashing. This is after it running relatively smoothly for a while. This last time it happened, I noticed one of the motors would not spin up on arming, it would stutter a few times and then stop. I made the decision to replace the ESC for that motor as I could not tell if anything was physically wrong with the motor. I original ESCs are probably 4-5 years old now. The new ESC are the exact same make and model as the existing ones.
After soldering in the new ESC and powering up the quad, the new ESC/motor made a beeping sound at regular intervals. I concluded this was due to the need for it to be calibrated. I attempted doing the calibration through mission planner. The calibration processed but on the next power up the beeping continued. I then tried calibrating using the All-ESC method described in Ardupilot documentation. The calibration processed, after which the beeping stopped. before I powered down I did test the throttle and only the new ESC/motor unit spun. the others did not. I find that strange. I powered down the quad and powered back up, and again the new ESC/motor started beeping at regular intervals.
I thought maybe the new ESC was bad so I put in another new one (had to buy a set of four off amazon so I have extras). Nothing changed. I then though maybe its the motor, so I switched in one of the other motors, still same problem.
Given my lack of experience with this hobby, I’m now stuck and have no idea how to proceed. If anyone can give me advice I’d really appreciate it. I’d be happy to provide any other details or even do a video of the calibration attempt if that would help.
I tried both and still am not having success. Is there a problem with replacing just one of four ESCs? If one breaks do I have to swap all of them out?
I am relative sure that it is possible only to exchange one ESC.
I hope you have a manual of your ESC I couldn’t find this on Readytosky Homepage. This let me doubt on such cheap products.
Follow the manual to initialize the ESC(s)
Let us know exactly which firmware you have know installed to your FC and show us your PARAM file
I currently am using fmuv3 firmware. I’ve attached the param list but I need to disclose I reset all the parameters to default, hoping that might solve the problem.
I’ve done everything I could save buy new better ESCs to use, which I would like to get from anyone a good recommendation if they have it. Since my last post I replaced all other old flytosky ESCs with new ones (same brand and model) I bought off amazon. Now when I plug the battery in I get continuous beeps every second from all of them. I don’t know what to say other than at this point did I buy bad ESCs?
Additionally now I cannot initiate an ESC calibration, either from mission planner or doing it manually using the transmitter. Have no idea why. I’m so lost
Do you have a manual of these ESCs?
How you setup these ESCs at the very first time?
What happens if you connect the ESC direct to the RC receiver without FC
The ESCs did not come with a manual. For first time setup I powered up the flight controller, connected to mission planner, and attempted a calibration using the software. That failed to eliminate the beep. Than I attempted to calibrate them manually all at once using the instructions on ardupilot.org. That did not work. I have not yet tried to calibrate each one separately by connecting them directly to the receiver. Do you think it worth doing that at this point or just replace them. And if I replace is there a good ESC alternative? I’m hesitant to go with a four in one as I don’t know how to integrate that with my pixhawk 2.4.8.
Maybe we have some missunderstanding. At the beginning your drone was flying with the first set of ESCs. These are the same brand and type as the new additional ones, I am right?
How you set up these first ESCs before the first flight?
There was really no setup required. Just an initial calibration using mission planner. It was years ago though.
I know 4 in 1 esc are a good choice, however I’m working off a readytosky s500 frame which power supply is done through the frame itself. Going to a 4 in 1 would essentially mean I need a new frame.
This is my first post in the community, so if I make a mistake or if any information is missing, please let me know. I am new to drones and decided to work on an old project I had of building a homemade one.
I am building it with:
Controller: TURBO PIX
Radio: RADIOLINK AT10
Frame: 3D printed
Motors: 4x A2212/13T 1000kv
ESCs: 4x ESC-30A Readytosky
Battery: 2S 2000mAh LiPo
Following the manual, I have already configured the Turbo Pix and most of the settings I need in MISSION PLANNER for RadioLink. I have communication between the transmitter and the receiver, and I verified the gyroscope’s functionality using Mission Planner.
The problem arises when I need to test the motors. If I run the test from Mission Planner without connecting the battery (to avoid damage), only one motor makes noise. The rest do nothing.
So, I decided to disconnect the PC. With the throttle at maximum, I connected the battery. The RED, BLUE, and YELLOW lights started flashing. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it, held the safety button for a few moments until it stayed solid, and then lowered the throttle to the minimum. Only the ESC that made noise earlier went through the activation process and worked. The other motors did nothing.
I have tried everything I can think of. If you could guide me, I would greatly appreciate it. If there is any test I can perform to verify that everything is working correctly, please let me know, and I will try to do it.
I should clarify that I tested the motors and ESCs before installing them by connecting them directly to the radio, and they worked fine.
Something that caught my attention is that I measured the voltage at the output of the power module, and the ESC that works has 7.3 volts, while the others show 4 volts. However, I’m not sure if this is because they are not configured or due to another issue.
Yes, I know that at the time it was the most economical option. This is the model in question, the TURBO PIX. Supposedly, it was the intermediate option between the PIXHAWK and the MINI PIX.
I’m asking out of ignorance. That is the power module, and supposedly, at each soldering point to the ESCs, it should have the battery voltage—approximately 7.4V. On solder point 1, I have it, but on the others, I don’t.
I don’t really know how the power module works, but what would happen if I bridged the connection from the battery connector to the ESC pins that don’t have the correct voltage? Or directly connect the 3 ESCs that aren’t receiving the correct voltage to the battery pins, bypassing the power module.
I still need to stay connected to the power module since it powers the flight controller.
I think you have damaged the module with that terrible soldering. You can see the surface mount inductor has been displaced probably from overheating it.
