C-Fly Faith/JJRC X12/EX4 Changing parameters and/or connecting Mission Planner, etc

By the way, the EX4 is completely capable of carrying one of those tiny combined camera/transmitter units to provide an independent FPV feed to goggles.

For FPV I just cast my phone to my goggles so that I can use it for any drone that uses a phone like the Fimi X8 where the phone is plugged in - so you get your phone screen projected into your goggles but wirelessly so there are no cables to snag your controller from your hands.
I need to test if the system also works with a phone that is wirelessly connected to a drone as my others are USB connected.

I was thinking of making or getting a dual FPV camera combo and use two RX and some cheap 2inch lcds to be an actual FPV rig but got sidetracked. Given how ridiculously cheap stereo viewers are I might go for buying instead of making.

PS: the 5GHz wifi really does make a huge difference when casting video over wireless. I tried with a 2.4GHz and it didnā€™t do very well even though we were on the same network just meters apart, lagging and low res. The 5.8GHz analog video on the other hand has very good latency and no freezing, just fuzzy pictures when reception gets impared.

Speaking of Mavics, I had my eye for some time on a Mavic Pro Enterprise Dual, but this is just a long shot of a dream. I might just get me a FLIR Lepton 3 USB test rig and hook it to a raspberry pi zero to make it a wireless webcam, stick a secondary regular webcam and have myself that good MSX FLIR is tempting us with. Thing is, with a much cheaper and obviously lower res gig I get something like the MSX, with the bonus of adding a 940nm IR projector, removing the IR filter on the visual light webcam to turn it into a night-vision one and I can really do some Predator things from up above. Maybe not tracking human body heat from 400 meters away but still good enough for roof, piping, crops monitoring from the air.

I agree with you Daniele. After I read the last posts about the question 3 km/ 1 km and so on I got a look at my EX4 box. Surprise! I canā€™t see at all neither the label ā€œPROā€ nor the 3 KM written. The only reference to this is (wow) just on the invoice. Also, the mark CE appears only on the box and the charger but not on the drone, not on the batteries, not on the RC controller.
OK, 1.5 km should be enough for me (presently) butā€¦the suspect is: why pay more for an old product?

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Mine came this week from the Banggood Spain warehouse and does have Pro on the box and under the battery on the drone ā€¦ nothing on the controller apart from 5Ghz, 5Ghz, 5Ghz :smiley:
I was a pig to pair up to get FPV though.

I heard that the quad no longer shows a wifi hotspot and you have to connect to the controller only, then somehow get the FPV to showā€¦

Yes, that is right ā€¦ I have waited ages but the drone never shows up.
The controller pairs with the drone and does a pass through of the FPV.
Odd really as the controller connects at 2.4Ghz but FPV is supposedly 5Ghz.
I had a few issues tonoght as I was testing my goggle and ended up uninstlling and re-installing the App - but it worked in the end and I could use my FPV goggles wirelessly too as i covered in my video which was aimed at quads like the Mavic, Mavic Mini and X8 but now I know it works for wifi connected drones too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZW3JKGXS2kk

Hey Mark,

Just watched your video, pretty neat. I have one of those HDMI2AVI converters, but funny thing is, I was using it to hook a 5inch FPV monitor to my laptop to use the additional screen in the DCS simulator to show the camera output from the IRST targeting pod, but since I resurrected my TrackIR device and since my laptop has a touch screen and DCS BlackShark has interactive cockpit with buttons and switches you can click and pucsh, itā€™s actually easier now to zoom in and out or lean sideways and have the whole image replicated on just one screen and push stuff in the cockpit rather than duplicate some details on a side screen and fiddle for the right key on the keyboard. The only drawback is the size of the touchscreen, only 12inches but itā€™s good enough and I can actually get decent resolution and framerate without a Nvidia GTX1080, but I digress :slight_smile:

Your setup though is neat, especially if you have those FPV goggles. I was thinking about getting them but without two video signals, like real stereoscopic images, I donā€™t find it that useful. On the other hand I saw an actual stereoscopic FPV camera+transmitter, those little VX+TX combos, but they arenā€™t that low costā€¦yet

When I had my Mavic Pro I fancied flying it with FPV goggles having done the same with my Quanum Nova via the iLook camera, but the DJI ones were very expensive.
I saw that people used a tablet with a HDMI port instead of their phone then plugged an HDMI cable into their goggles, adding the HDMI2AV if their goggles had just the AVIN port. That also got pretty expensive and meant having a big tablet on the controller as well as the wires linking the controller to the goggles.
As I had the AnyCast dongle for my projector I came up with my idea which worked pretty well - it is not for racing drones but for gentle photo and video work it works really well and you can get Eachine goggles with AVIn ports for about $30 to $40 and then my entire setup only costs about $30 ā€¦ so less than a tablet and more freedom.
Remember when you swipe left (or is it right) your feed goes full screen so you get the full video view which works well in the goggles

Hi ruLegen, your post was very useful to me and gave me the chance to change a couple of parameters. Many compliments and thanks to you. But now I have a question: which kind of analyzer (sniffer) did you use? Installed into the android or iOS smartphone or into a PC?

Hi gbal, Iā€™m glad to hear that it was useful for you :slight_smile:. I used my Android phone with installed ā€œPacket Captureā€ app. I tried use PCā€™s sniffer, but i wasnā€™t able redirect Androidā€™s packets into PC

Yes, sure! What you wrote in your post was enough for my first action: modify the EX4 parameters. Now I am looking for a way to download the footages from the drone without take away the SD card. While waiting for your answer I searched on Play Store and I found, guess whatā€¦, just ā€œPacket Captureā€ that you mention. Itā€™s a great app, for me is better than WireShark for PC. Thank you again.

For downloading the footage from the drone you donā€™t really need to go to the PX4, itā€™s on a separate data stream. To live view it in any stream player use this UTL:
rtsp://hy_syma:ls155633@172.50.10.1:19200/HYSymaH264VideoSMS

It works from any device connected to the droneā€™s or controllerā€™s wifi. Basically the camera is apparently a clone/licensed Syma protocol video streamer.

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Yes, I used Packet Capture just to see which kind of format the have the packets exchanged between C-Fly and the drone.

Thank you for your suggestion to use a stream player to see/get them. I am trying VLC that seems work fineā€¦.

Denis
Double check your order - I just went on that link and the charger is the same as mine - then there is another option for Ā£20 for just the charger unit ā€¦ so on that linked page you would have to buy the charger and the power supply.

Anyone had issues with SD cards?
I came to watch my video and the SD card was blank - popped it back in and the drone shows N/A for the SD card. It is a SnaDisk Ultra.
Tried another one and a different make and was thinking the drone was bad when i put my Lexar one and it sw that fine.
The Lexar had been formatted in my Mavic, others on a PC (all as FAT32) and all fast cards.
Any thoughts why it wouldnā€™t see the others?
Thanks, Mark

If the card is of a higher than 32GB it can cause issues with the quad not recognizing it. Some folks though formatted it on a PC with FAT32 and that seemed to work. I personally donā€™t use anything above 32 GB. Too much of a risk letting the videos linger on the card and either deleting or losing them if the card goes bad - been there, done that.

Also good catch on the charger bit. The thing I ordered was just the power supply. Damn sneaky chineseā€¦ :slight_smile: theyā€™d do anything to take your moneyā€¦well weā€™ll get through this covid crisis and things will changeā€¦just wait and seeā€¦until then Iā€™ve forked the money for the LiPo/LiHV charger itself, no point in having just the power supplyā€¦only that for that amount of money I could have bought one from a local vendor and save me the wait timeā€¦lesson learnedā€¦

Thanks - they were all 32GB cards so not sure what the problem is.
Just had a schoolboy error with my new EX4!
Flying in the forest so struggling under the trees for GPS causing it to be a bit lively so changed to Attitude mode which was much better but near the end of the flight went up high to get a photo but went directly over myself so I could keep an eye on it between the branches ā€¦ so of course lost signal and being in Atti it just moved forward on its own into the nearest branch it could find ā€¦ stopped immediately which was good then gently bounced through the branches from about 40 feet up and landed in some long grass. Mucky but all OK, just a dink in one prop and the last video file corrupted ā€¦ looking for something to repair it now :grinning:

Sounds like my crash, just that I wasnā€™t in the woods, barely around a park near a skate rink. It was quite hot so this could have likely played a good part as both the quad and the battery were quite hot when I retrieved them. Thing is I had the ominous EM interference error before the quad went bonkers and flew straight into a nearby tree. Took a couple of tumbles then landed not so hard on the asphalt. The aftermath was a dinged prop, a missing rubber pad from one of the legs and nothing serious. The quad still files and handles which is surprising given how small these quads are and how low quality they seem to be built.

Anyways, tomorrow I hope I can get some flight time weather permitting, in the nearby park we go cycling.

Oh, this reminds me. Those little rubber feet easily pop out. If you want to help avoid that, just wrap a bit of electrical tape around the area where they connect to the main parts of the legs, that holds them in nicely.

Right, good tip. Iā€™ve actually used loctite to glue the makeshift rubber feet I made for the one thatā€™s gone missing. Itā€™s not as firm as the other rubber feet nor did I manage to cut it on the exact shape but it does the job. Also itā€™s like a scar, to remind me not to trust this quad too much.