Hi Markus
I know what I did wrong I compared the parameters file and did not uncheck the boxes so they all went back to the previous settings “forever learning” you do need to be so careful as it would b very easy to loose a Heli.
any way here is the new Params file
Markus params 121216.param (9.3 KB)
By the way where do you live im in Perth Western Australia
Cheers
Kevin
this is the most important lesson in heli flying 
This parameter file is much better !
Some things to consider:
Did you set the swash limit to get something like 6° to 8° with full aileron or elevator ?
H_CYC_MAX,2500 … still on default, can be correct ofcourse, I am only asking
H_COL_MAX,1685
H_COL_MID,1505
H_COL_MIN,1315
In an ideal world you would use the full resolution. H_COL_MAX - H_COL_MID = 1750 - 1500 = 250 for the default values. In your case 1685 - 1505 = 180 and 1505 - 1315 = 190, which means you could shorten your servo arms to have more power and resolution. You should consider changing this now, because you have to do the whole tuning again if you change it later. No need to achieve exactly 250 but you are quite far off so please consider changing to another hole on the servo arms. If you change don’t forget H_CYC_MAX should be around 2500 as well, so find a good compromise !
According to Fred 3.4.3 is good, it is your choice if you want to upgrade now or later.
You didn’t setup Throttle Failsafe as you still have FS_THR_ENABLE,0 and FS_THR_VALUE,975. It is up to you, but I strongly recommend to get a working Failsafe !!! Check it without blades by walking around with your heli as you have different behaviour in different modes. I know it is lots of work, but the devil never sleeps !
Some minor stuff:
Set RC_FEEL_RP = 100 if you like precise control, set RC_SPEED to the max. Hz your slowest servo can safely handle (tail servos are usually faster than swash servos). You should start in Acro mode and have Stabilize and AltHold for testing. Use GPS modes after you verified AltHold.
You should be ready for test flying after doing your homework 
ALWAYS check stick movement and reaction to heli movements before EVERY flight !
I live on the other side in the ‘other Australia’ without kangaroos.
Hi Markus
I take it that your in NZ lovely place been a couple of times to commission and test fly new Rotorway 162 and Talon 600ARL Helicopters.
I had not reset the H_CYC_MAX but have done so now.
Not sure on how the fail safe should be setup?
I cant shorten the arms any more or they will push the swash from about 80 Degress instead of 90 you can see from the photos.
Hi Kevin,
There is quite a lot of info on Failsafe in the wiki. Please read first.
Arm the heli without blades, set the headspeed very low and check what happens when you switch your TX off, what happens if you pull the cable from RCin, etc. The behaviour is different depending on the flight mode, therefore my recommendation to walk with the heli away to check for RTL etc.
Yes you can, because swash movement and resolution is more important than 80° or 90°. You should set it up as described in the previous posting and watch for binding in the extreme positions.
Hi Markus
Thank you for your help got the FS working as it does in the wiki with the Taranis X9E FS no signal settings on the receiver.
Have shorten the arms and will upgrade the FW and compare the Param files after install.
Had a hover for 90 seconds all good totally controllable and a good start so now i need to get my old head around the tuning what am i trying to achieve with my low and high tune CH6 settings any thing i need to look out for before i start turning the knob.
The Yaw its really dead in the center as well do i change the DZ settings in RC4 or is their another menu for the tail settings.
Params 131216.param (9.3 KB)
Cheers
Kevin
I am sure it is not impertinent if I tell you I would prefer the Rotorway heli with HOGE 9000 feet instead of the beer 
No signal setting is perfect.
You can change RC3_DZ and RC4_DZ to 5 as well.
Tuning:
Read the article in post #34. You should hover at 1m and have a finger on the throttle cut when you turn the channel 6 knob up (or be fast enough to turn it down).
General rule: Good judgement comes from experience and experience comes from bad judgement.
In other words you need to turn the knob until the heli starts shaking and back it off again 20 to 30%.
You should try to shake the heli using rythmic inputs, because heli can be smooth in zero wind and go into resonance (=self destruction) if it is gusty, therefore always choose the lower PID value when in doubt… Doing this tells you how P, I and D oscillations look like. For the D use TUNE_LOW=0 and TUNE_HIGH=3, be warned it’s D like Devil.
Use the Dataflash logs to check for Vibration and DesRoll vs. Roll, etc.
Too low PID (not balanced) can oscillate as well, correct mechanical setup is very important etc., therefore it can become quite complex.
Some parameters have a different name in 3.4.3.
Cheap way to remove main and tail blade vibrations: http://forum.heliguy.com/dynamic-cog-und-static-main-blade-balancing-t71916.html
You can put masking tape on the blade in the CoG area and balance the blade on a sharp edge. The blade should not balance in 90° (what you would normally do), but be balanced in 45° and 135°. When in balance push the blade against the sharp edge to get a mark (depression) in the masking tape. This way you get good result for CoG.
Hi Guys Have not forgotten all help and the progress had to come to halt for while due to other commitments and Xmas but hope to get back into the flying soon
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all
