Hi, I have a problem I just can’t figure out with autopilot functions on my boat. It works fine in Manual mode (except one glitch I’ll mention below), but when I switch to RTL it goes pretty much in the exact opposite direction from the launch point. I’m using a walksnail video system and the OSD points in the correct direction to home, and there is a good GPS fix. Circle mode also behaves strangely, it circles for a short while then heads off in a seemingly random direction. Loiter mode works correctly however. The glitch I mentioned that may be a clue, is that when I first start up the system, the rudder moves in the opposite direction than it should based on stick movements. But when the motor is armed (I have this on a switch and it also sets the home point and turns on video recording), the rudder starts to move correctly, and continues to move correctly if the vehicle is disarmed.
Based on an old post, I messsed with RC1_REVERSED and inverting the rudder channel on the Tx. The rudder works correctly (after arming) if either RC1_REVERSED = 1 or CH1 output is inverted on the Tx, but either way, RTL goes the wrong way.
I have recalibrated the compass and the accelerometer to no avail. The HUD display in MP moves correctly when the boat is tipped around and the heading is also correct, so I think I’m good there. I should note the FC is mounted upside down so I have set AHRS_ORIENTATION = 8 (Roll 180).
I saw a previous similar (but unresolved) post suggested posting the log file, but I’m unsure which one you might need.
I think I’m probably missing something obvious, and would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!
Here is the setup:
ArduRover 4.6.1
FC: SpeedyBee F405 Wing Mini
Radiomaster ELRS RP1-V2 Rx
OK, maybe I’m dumb but I just can’t get this. For context, a couple of months ago, I got RTL and other auto functions working in a sailboat without any issues whatsoever. I tried to follow your instructions with this motor boat, starting with tuning. Most of the tuning I had not already done required a live connection to a GCS. For a boat, this means a wireless connection and I can’t get that to work with MP wirelessly either with the SpeedyBee FC WiFi or ELRS/MAVlink, so I’m kinda stuck on that point. I did upgrade my FW from 4.6.1 to 4.6.2, and I recalibrated the compass and accelerometer (again). I tried Acro mode and the boat just drifts a little from course but if I add any steering input it starts weaving around and ends up going around in tight circles. This might have to do with steering trim; this is difficult to get right because the boat has some windage so you have to try various headings to ascertain what the right trim is. Neutral trim is pretty close but it seemed some right trim was needed; I was going to use RC1_OPTION = 5 to save the trim (per Save Steering Trim — Rover documentation) but MP says that’s for 4.1 and lower - so what do I do to save trim in 4.6.2? So basically the whole process is a bust and I don’t know what to do. It seems like with the accelerometer, compass and GPs all well-calibrated, and the sterring trim pretty close, RTL should at least send the boat in roughly the right direction, not 180 degrees in the wrong direction - or? I am starting to think the problem might be with this FC (SpeedyBee F405 Wing Mini), as in my sailboat the whole setup was a piece of cake with a Matek H743 Slim V3. So: Any specific points I might look at would be really helpful. And what exactly am I supposed to be looking for when I put it in Acro mode?
You follow the link I sent, step by step, which includes tuning in ACRO mode. If it doesn’t drive in ACRO, it will never RTL properly. The steering isn’t “close” if it goes in uncommanded circles, and I think you still probably have an RC vs SERVO reversal issue. But only you can solve that by following the steps I linked.
Also, RC1_OPTION,155: Set steering trim to current servo and RC
OK, I have made some progress and am now on tuning of steering in ACRO mode. The issue I am having is that the PID Desired and PID Achieved are going in opposite directions. The boat turns in the direction commanded by the stick movement and is drivable in ACRO. If I tweak ATT_STR_RAT_FF/p/I, I can get the curves to go in equal amounts simultaneously, but only in opposite directions. I’m not sure if this is fundamentally wrong (and I don’t know how to fix it) or if perhaps this just has something to do with the axis setup that I’m missing. Please advise.
FWIW, here are the other steps I have taken:
I swapped in a Matek H743 Slim V3 for the Speedy Bee FC. That has cured the rudder-reversal-on-arming problem as well as the erratic arming behavior I was getting.
I have rudder SERVO1_TRIM adjusted and the boat goes in a straight line hands off in MANUAL (with light winds).
I tried rover-quicktune.lua and it ran but never got anywhere.
I set CRUISE_SPEED/THROTTLE using “Learn Cruise”, and tuned throttle parameters using the tuning screen
The boat works fine in MANUAL, LOITER and HOLD, and perhaps CIRCLE (not thoroughly tested)
I finally got Mission Planner talking to my ELRS Tx over USB, although WiFi still isn’t working.
Need a log to diagnose further. Sounds like things are still all reversed and crossed up. Manual mode (in terms of tuning) does nothing other than confirm that signals are sent - not that they are in proper direction/orientation.
Looks like you have fixed any steering reversal issues that were present before.
ARMING_CHECK is disabled. Enable it and then work to correct whatever arming checks are failing. Do not leave it disabled, as that is a poor crutch to force a poor configuration to work.
Your vehicle simply isn’t physically capable of the steering rate/acceleration demanded by the current configuration.
I did not dig much farther, as you have a long way to go, and it’s probably not worth much more analysis at this stage. Set the parameters I gave and then re-examine steering performance and continue to tune the ATC_SPEED and ATC_STR_RAT FF, P, I, and D terms according to already linked documentation.
Ah, thanks so much! Very helpful. I think I might be starting to understand it Pre-arm check was disabled when I was working on things indoors, I’ll re-enable it. I cannot work on this this for a couple of weeks, but will get back to it in October. Thanks again!
Between yesterday and today I was able to complete all the tuning and now the RTL and AUTO functions work flawlessly! Thanks so much for your advice and assistance - much appreciated!
Pre-arm check was disabled when I was working on things indoors, I’ll re-enable it. I cannot work on this this for a couple of weeks, but will get back to it in October. Thanks again!