Problems with high voltage battery

Hi there!
I am trying to build a new quadcopter with next hardware:
Pixhawk 2.4.8
Frame - ZD680
Motos - Sunnysky x4110s 340kv
ESC - Readytosky 40A
Props - Tarot, folding, 15 inch

When I tried my first fly(without any initial tuning) on a 6s big battery it was very “nervous” and did twitch every couple of seconds finally after a few tries one motor “lost” thrust and the copter crashed.
I did some initial tuning, moved gps/compass further from battery and did one more flight, but this time

I took 4s battery by mistake. The flights were good, stabilize/alt hold/loiter worked fine, had just one twitch and found later in logs “Ground Mag Anomaly” message just when twich happened.

So I was pretty sure that everything will work fine and I can switch to autotune, but with 6s battery.
I also moved the compass 5cm higher, because of that error, but now I had just the same issues on 6s as before. On every mode: stabilize/alt hold/loiter. Also, it produces some strange sounds, like something is preventing the motors to move.

Can you please check my logs?

4s, good flight with one twitch:
6s, two bad flights, second has the same problem with one arm/motor being less powered:

Oh, forgot one more difference. On 4s flight, I added a big capacitor where the battery connects to PBD. In 6s flight, I didn’t use it, because I didn’t have a place for it and also because I had two capacitors on every ESC.

The craft has insufficient thrust/weight on 4S for proper flight stability so either lose some weight or use 6S. Which exact ESC’s do you have? You have Dhot600 set but I don’t know as I have seen 6S Dshot capable ESC’s from that low quality supplier.

I want to use only 6s. I took 4s by mistake, it was also big :dotted_line_face:
ESC are these:

I also have the next ESCs, Worse to replace?

Old technology and they don’t support Dshot so set MOT_PWM_TYPE back to default (0) for PWM. And these:

And try to make a simple Hover in AltHold for a minute or so and post that log. You are not ready to run Auto Tune w/o setting the Dynamic Notch Filter.

You likely have to lower the Rate PID’s also but try the hover 1st.

Doesn’t much matter they would both be set to PWM. Get yourself some BLHeli_32 ESC’s as the best option.

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Applied params and was not able to hover even 10 seconds :roll_eyes:
Copter just crashed to the same arm as before

Collected logs:

In this case you had thrust loss on Motor 3, Motor 4 dropped to compensate and down it goes. Perhaps you have some bad hardware or bad connections. Let’s see a photo of this craft.

Could it be becuase of these plugs? I could try to solder them.

But everything was ok with 4s battery.

I would never use connectors/plugs for ESC connection. They are a common point of failure.

Tidy up all the wiring too, it will all need to be secured but not pulling tight on the flight controller or rubbing against it. Stiff wires like the GPS cable especially.
It’s amazing how much the wiring can amplify vibrations or cause more vibrations in the prop wash.
Remove that big stiff USB cable, find the correct connector that plugs into the small USB socket on the top of the flight controller, with normal skinny wires, and extend that out to a remote USB socket.

Is that a second battery?? Or maybe a small one just for testing…
Just for the record, it’s a bad idea to set up a second battery to power separate items on a small multirotor - it’s just adding complexity, weight and more points of failure. Best to power everything from the main flight battery and size it accordingly.

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USB cable was removed, and I used it only to calibrate the compass outdoor.
This is only one, main battery. Keep it at the top to leave space for payload at the bottom.
I will try to handle the wiring, thank you!
I burned one ESC because of a short circuit after my soldering :man_facepalming:
Will change them to Emax ones and will to hovering again.

Replace them with current tech ESC’s. Those Emax units are old shit even if you bought them new recently.

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Like this?

For that copter get a good well known 4in1 BLHELI32 ESC.
I’ve used the Holybro 45A 4in1 and the 65A Metal 4in1 with success.
Many people have success with some other well known brands.
This simplifies wiring and you can use DSHOT600 with at least RPM data, if not more data like temperature and voltage.
The RPM data drives the Harmonic Notch Filter.

We can help you with the required BLHELI settings and everything else, you wont regret it.

I tried 4in1 Mamba 128k esc first, but motor speed was very low, so I just returned to that old escs
So I will put that 4in1 back and try again

There is a few BLHELI32 settings you need to do via the BLHELI32 Suite

Low RPM Power protect = OFF
Low Voltage Protect = OFF
Motor Timing = Auto
Temperature Protection = 100

then there’s a bunch of other config to do…

No, not those. A blhel_32 ESC and use the settings Shawn suggested.

I returned to 4in1 esc, applied params, and now have a couple of questions.

  1. I tried to rise the throttle without props and keep receiving potential thrust loss on motor 1 (but it’s actually the previous motor 2, I accidentally turned the ESC 180 degrees and now the wiring needs to be changed)
  2. Temperature Protection option was disabled in the BLHELI suite. Is it ok?
  3. should I turn off SERVO_BLH_AUTO after completing the ESC setup?

And also, sometimes one of the motors start to produce unhealthy sound: