Before BLHel_S there was plain vanilla BLHeli. Almost as ancient as SimonK…
I see, didn’t know that
When Oneshot 125 was the hot thing…
I literally got those ESCs for around 800 inr, which is almost the same as LittleBee Oneshot125 escs so quite scammed.
Also, since the primary issue is underpowered and PID tuning, I have decided to change to the new motors from EMAX as they give 170gm extra thrust each (so TWR up to 2.3 which is I think enough for stable flight, and then I can always go up to 4s, which makes it 3)
Also, is there some suggestion on removing Loctite blue 242 on the f450 frame? I cannot heat it up as the frame’s plastic would melt probably.
Thanks
Whatever solvent you try, like Acetone, will probably eat that plastic also. Try isopropyl alcohol but it might not do anything.
can i just use force to untighten the screw or there is risk of damage to screw/motor?
You won’t damage the motor. Worse that can happen is you strip out the hex on the fastener.
i personally would prefer if the screws come out undamaged and motor threads break because they are probably gonna for desk experiments or something like that but ig i can always get new screws, not that expensive.
I’m currently out for a month, and then will replace them when I come back. Will recontinue on this thread if any issues arise.
@dkemxr, @StrikeEagle and others thanks for your help.
Also another thing is low quality allen keys themselves being stripped round
I just use a screwdriver with a metal rod fixed in a circular hole in it and then it has allen heads, its like this:
Sorry for entering the discussion so late (I got busy in college admission processes… But back to work now .)
Yes I do use these 920KV DJI clone motors (purchased from robu.in, and 3S battery pack) and for sure India’s “El-Nino” summers (43°C ambient temp here) heat them up! 
But in my case, as I touched the motors on my drone’s first flight (before any Quicktune or autotune), even after a 7-10 minutes flight, motors felt quite warm, but not burning hot (might be 60°C)
As I flew the drone once while doing Quicktune calibration, for upto 20 minutes, Under direct clear sun, The motors definitely got hot, but not more than ~72°C. I could touch them for 5 seconds before my finger felt burning.
As I proceed with the autotune processes, I will share whether autotune reduces heating.
Well I just recently changed to emax mt2213s
Had my first flight from a lipo at 11.4 and flew for about 45secs since some wires were near the prop radius. They werent hot but there were more vibrations because the props were not mounted tightly and had become little loose by landing. I am in the process of balancing the props and then will continue. From this flight’s log I think the pid issues were reduced a bit as I think the output is more even as compared to before but obviously it can be far better.
Also what grit-sandpaper is best for sanding while balancing the props?? I have 200 grit sandpaper and it’s quite worn out and my result from practice on an old prop is shown in this video
If your prop is largely unbalanced, 200 grit can work, but it will give scratches too I think.. it will remove a lot of material quickly, so just use carefully, And avoid doing near the leading/trailing edge of your prop.
I think, something in the 320-400 grit range might work best.
Yes, you should definitely balance prop, And then fly for a longer time to see whether the new motors heat up too?
The sandpaper is quite worn down (using for about 6months) so it might have become quite less harsh)
I only have this available at the local shop. It took about 20-30 mins to balance the prop in that video (it’s my first time doing this). Also should I keep the paper dry or make it wet and then use it?
@RudrakshTek how much does your quad copter weigh and what throttle is given to the motors for hovering at a full charged 3s?
This copter has AUW of ~1.1KG (No FPV Camera mounted currently) and the MOT_THST_HOVER param shows a value between 0.27 to 0.28
(The reason being, I use 1045 Carbon Fibre props, which don’t flex at the hover RPM, so motors run slower. I have always had bad experiences with cheap plastic props, so I invested more in CF Props and due to that, My drone flew well stable even at a 85m altitude on just it’s 7-8th flight! (Although Amilcar sir stopped me from going that high before my drone fully configures up! 
))
Yes it’s true that it has lost its pure 200-grit on certain areas, but some irregular areas might have that 200-grit roughness,
As you said only that is available on your local shop, then absolutely Wet it for sure before using and if possible, also add just a few drops of Liquid dish washing soap, to make it slide slightly smoother, and don’t apply a lot of pressure, just gentle scrubbing, and then everytime, wipe the prop dry with a cloth, and check on balancer.
Personally, I use tape for balancing. I apply pieces of parcel-packaging tape on the very tip of the underside of lighter side.
Ok
Mine also has similar weight (1165gms) auw
How much more thrust did you get with cf props??
Isn’t it better to use sanding?
Sanding also makes the weight equal but the prop overall gets lighter which makes the motor response better?
CF props which are sold on aliexpress are extrremely low quality in terms of aerodynamic shape. I once bought a set and it provided hover efficiency about 12 % lower than EOLO props. I think even normal cheap plastic props could be better.
Sanding to reduce weight is really not very bright iidea… buy a better prop. Again, EOLO has the lightest reasonably priced ones. The other option is airplane APC props, their efficiency is close to EOLOm but they are much heavier (double).