Kakute H7- motors spin then stop

Dave and Shawn, I set up battery monitor and ran the suggested test; very helpful. A full 4S 3000 mAh battery shows 16.35 V, drawing .1 A before testing. I used spin all motors at 30 seconds. At five percent, all motors start then three stop within a couple of seconds. One motor, A, continues running, not smoothly but stuttering, sometimes the full 30 seconds but usually less. Battery monitor shows about a 3 A draw. The messages pane continues to show the test is running until it times out.

If I arm the FC, all motors turn briefly, a second or less, then stop. There’s no response to the throttle.

So clearly something is limiting current to the motors, and I’m now inclined to agree that it’s a hardware fault. Unfortunately, I don’t have another ESC (yet) to try. Holybro has asked me to send them a video showing the problem (using Betaflight) and I’ll let you know their response. Thanks again.

And this also happens at increasing throttle percent levels? That was the point of the test.

Sorry, above 5 or 6 percent all four start then stop after a second or so. Motor A does not continue running.

I tried MOT_PWM_TYPE set to 0 (Normal), 1 (OneShot), 4 (DShot150), 5 (DShot300), and 6 (DShot600). Each gives much the same result; motors run for a second or a few seconds, sort of stuttering, then stop.

Thats very strange, ESCs should work as expected in the same mode they are flashed with and PWM (normal) as other modes are PWM compatible (are they???)

Try using std servos instead of ESCs. If the board is locked with PWN servo will move.

But best would be to look at signal with oscilloscope or signal analyzer.

It seems to me ESCs are damaged or miss-flashed. Preferably, the last one.
Boards’ firmware is not a case as all have the same symptoms, same with motors.

Connect motors using other ESCs or use servos.

This is the am32 configuration:


I agree with you that it is not the FC board. I’ve sent screenshots and videos to Holybro and will wait to hear their reaction.

That equipment sometimes damaged. I bought a board with a broken barometer, spent two weeks soldering it and configuring it, only to find was broken. I spent a week then rewriting the driver. Finally, I sent back. Unfortunately, these things happen.

Try unset ā€œVariable PWMā€ for testing.

I remember a discussion from late November about AM32 having problems with low KV motors.
I believe it was this discussion.

And if you didn’t see it V4.6.0 beta4 has a fix for AM32 passthru if you were flashing back to BF to access the configurator.

I replied to the wrong post but no matter.

Now that I see this, are you sure you reversed the correct motors?

Typically you reverse motors 2 and 3.

No. We’ve covered this before. There’s no guarantee that motors will spin a certain direction unless you do some serious hardware analysis before soldering the 3 wires that connect them. You reverse based upon observation, not blind procedure.

That setting didn’t change the results but that’s an interesting discussion you linked.

Holybro sent me a firmware file, which I flashed to no effect. I purchased a Rush Blade 60A ESC and will try that when it arrives. I’ll post those results here.

Hi thimothy,
Why don’t you test the esc and motor combination with a servo tester or by connecting it directly to the receiver?
Best regards Maarten

Honestly, IMO the ESC is NOT at fault here. What happens if you run the copter with betaflight?

Motors TAB, enable BDShot Telemetry and look for the Error Counters.

Another thought, check your motors, did you use screws of the correct length to mount the motors? Some people don’t pay attention to that, especially if the motors only come with one set of screws.

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You, sir, are a genius! Indeed, the motor mounts were causing the problem. These mounts are printed, as is the central hub, with 8 mm carbon tubes as arms. The 30 mm screws holding the motors protruded through the base, not touching the windings but very close. I printed some TPU pads to further raise the motors and they all spin up properly now. Thanks again to you and all the helpful people here. Now I can work on the front half of the frame, which will hold the camera.

Nice, just had to correct my own comment. I meant that the ESC is NOT at fault, just missed the NOT.

The thing with the motor screws was a common issue in the last decade when copter frames came with different size base plates.
Technically your motors are suspect to fail now because you damaged the windings.
If it’s just the isolation, us a spray of PCB coating from the bottom, through the holes, so you hit only the damaged parts.

Concerning your solution, please don’t add another part that can fail, just shorten the screws instead, file, dremel, you name it. There are even pliers that can cut screws in a clean way, ENGINEER-PA-24 for example.

The screws didn’t quite touch the windings and I can’t see any damage to them, so should be okay. The TPU pads provide some vibration isolation.