Yes, tried the retry twice.
Cube Orange Plus, 3 IMUs.
Everything has worked, but I hadn’t run across that error before so just through I’d put it out there.
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Sir, I am really curious about knowing that, if The H743 processor is sufficient to heat the board upto around 60°C, Why doesn’t this calibration complete early?
Means just look at the raspberry pi 4’s processor, It heats to 60°C in less than 5 minutes of boot?
Although H743 is much slower than raspberry pi’s processor, but still, the whole process should take just 25 minutes max. But here, currently I see that temperature is increasing very very slowly after 30°C? Looks like will take much time more.
(Btw this is the 3rd time I am running temperature calibration, and looks like everything is happening perfectly now. Although the “messages” tab is still not displaying in IMU Temperature calibration data, but i see a “2” in the INS_TCAL1_ENABLE in full parameters list. I even see that the TCAL_MAX is continuously increasing its value to the current temperature.
Because the IMU chip has not reached the 60°C yet.
H743 processor temperature is different from IMU temperature!
Then you either:
- wait or
- heat up the board faster (put it in a 50°C environment) or
- skip the IMU temperature calibration altogether.
I advise 1
You do not need 60°C. 50°C should be enough, and are sure better than no calibration at all.
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Sir! This H7 is worse!
It didn’t even heated the board beyond 30.8°C. my 3rd calibration ended with TMAX reaching only 30.8. and TMIN around 1.7°.
Why did this H7 failed to heat it more ?
Now for my next and 4th time calibration, I will follow your 2nd advice. Heating the board faster. I will bring my soldering iron (Ceramic core open, tips removed!) close to the top of the board and This will increase the temperature of the board faster and significantly (I experimented Live just now) 
It needs to be done relatively slowly (10 minutes from 0°C to 50°C) and the board must not move at all!
Yes sir. I never moved the board even one mm.
I bought a hot soldering iron core above it. Temperature started rising significantly by nearly 5°C a minute.
Although my bad luck, when I had this idea, the calibration got over.
And somehow, the active buzzer connected to Kakute Buzzer pins is not beeping at all.
Do you have, or know anyone who has a 3D printer? I’ve used the heated bed on a printer before on controllers that don’t have heaters. The trick is slowly bumping up the heat a few degrees at a time. Don’t just turn it up to 60 because it will go too fast to get a good reading.
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Or something that works really well is by placing the board in sunlight. You will probably get a 10 - 15 deg extra rise than inside the room. Just make sure to increase the max temp parameter again else it will stop when it reaches your current max, which is 30 deg.
And if it doesn’t get to a max temp as required, I guess it’s okay for now. You’re probably in a very cool location now and it’s unlikely the board will heat up more than the max temp value while in flight (I might be wrong, but this is what I’ve seen with a Pixhawk 2.4.8). So you may be able to use the current calibration values unless the ambient temperature increases and then you can re run the calibration.
When I have to make 3D parts, I always go to robu.in website because they offer 3D Printing services. Otherwise it’s quite rare if even just a single person has a 3D printer in this city I live.
@StrikeEagle Yes you are right. Obviously it’s winters here. And since I was doing that calibration at night (3am 
) the ambient temperature got further decreased. In sunlight, we might just reach 37°C, not more.
For now, I have 2 ideas:
-
Keeping the soldering iron Ceramic core sufficiently distant from IMU, MCU so that they heat slowly to 50-58°C (my set TMAX)
-
Since winters are on, a Hot air blowing house heater is roaming around here, And I can just blow it’s hot air to Kakute. At the max power level, the air it’s able to give has a temperature of 70-90°C. It will slowly heat the Kakute when placed at a distance from it.
For now, I am going with the 2nd idea.
Heater Blower will run in a closed room, At a distance from Kakute, So direct hot air touches Kakute very slightly. Room will heat up. Temperature will increase.
AND finally the 4th time my Ideas got successful. I was successful in making the temp reach slowly to 57 degC and look at the graphs so produced!! 
=>
Correct?
I really dont understand why such an important calibration is made “Optional” in AMC? Just look at the temperature-dependent drift of the sensors! Its so large! 
And corrected XYZ has no such deviation.
But, in IMU0 accel graph, why did the corrected Z (brown) is so much “Vibrating” ? Why is it not quite and near-0 like the corrected X, Y ?
Now as the AMC docs says, i will assemble everything onto drone, and will move to next step.
Correct?
Yes
Because your desk moved as you placed your hands on it.
OMG!
But I was simply just touching the touch pad of laptop on table!? Table itself was rock stable on ground.
Is the drone IMU so sensitive that it detects even such small finger tapping vibrations running across table?
And is this a matter of concern? Is the calibration to be done again?
Yes it does, it also detects your footsteps as you approach the table.
No, the graphs looks OK. They could be better, but they are OK.
Proceed.
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As always, create a new topic for distinct questions.
50 posts about temperature calibration has definitely run its course.
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