Nothing at all. Have triple checked all connections. But I’ll deal with it in the morning now.
Sorry you’re having these issues. I tested my home made antenna in the backyard and it connected and flew but gusting breezes made it wonky. I went to a local park to test distance but there was a spring event that took over the place and had to forget that idea. Will try tomorrow.
@Leztec . . . I’m ready to order a 5dB antenna if it will do any good with range. Found one for $2.15 that will ship to the US.
@Dude its ok all part of the hobby and gives me something to play with lol an yes keep us posted on your antenna progress.
@JEFFGORDON all you really need is the cable then can use/try any antenna you like
For lighter airframe, this might work. I loaded SV controllers on very old geared quad frame. All up weight is 124g, 19g lighter. Tried indoors only but flew ok without changing PID so far.
This frame is very old WLtoys V959 V212 V222 parts which I played as light acro quad before (https://youtu.be/W5OywFelzMw).
I do not see this sold any more, but see similar one available and I got one of them, mold is different but construction is similar. You can find as ‘CW CCW Motor Propellers Body Frame Gears for UDI RC Quadcopter Accessory’ at ebay.
throw Autotune mode at it and it’ll get it perfect.
@Satoru_Sasaki . . . is the motor-gear assembly detachable from the arm?
Is this pic the same as what you used? Are you using the stock SV motors? What size props?
Since I do most of my flying at night, the LED relocation is really important. I’ve found that if you remove the lower portion of the LED bay it makes it easier to remove & reinstall the lens with the LED pre-pressed into it.
@JEFFGORDON Looks like exact the same unit. Be sure to get center plastic mount together with that motor parts.
I use motors came with that. Motor size is the same but gear and gear ratio is different. Note spar gear shaft is carbon and it has bearing, No slopping.
This photo shows how it is assembled. Square plastic covers connector and very thin wire goes through square carbon pipe. Carbon square pipe is not glued, only pushed into center mount and motor mount. Wire is very thin and fragile at best. (I needed to rewire it after I opened this tonight.)
Prop dia is slightly larger than SV. Center white prop is the ebay one I mentioned. Same dia but slightly wider blade than SV.
[quote=“Satoru_Sasaki, post:65, topic:27496”]
That sticker should say
“Warning: This sticker and the residual glue it leaves behind will cause this prop to be wildly off balance”
@Leztec . . . thanks for the inspiration to try the $2 Tx antenna mod . . . mine arrived today and just finished the install . . . went a little different route than you, decided to keep the strut intact.
Will do range testing tomorrow.
UPDATE: Have not seen much, if any, increase in range guess 3-cell Tx’s have their limits
Did the Tx to SV antenna transplant today to see if there was any noticeable increase in range.
It was pretty straightforward and required no cutting . . . but . . . all I got out of it was a close-up view of the Tx antenna dipole PCB . . . no increase in range even after mounting the antenna horiz and vert. The app always said “connecting” but never did so I flew with GPS locked from Tx light.
I’m guessing that at these frequencies, location of antenna means nothing . . . guess SkyRocket dialed in the antenna.
Decided to add self stick landing gear pads since sometimes I land on dirt and the dirt gets driven into the motor mount and makes it hard to disassemble for maintenance.
Also, has anyone noticed a SV design change for the brush guards? I think the ones I now have mounted might be the new style and are more robust.
The LEDs covers can be popped out with an xacto blade or similar thin tool. No need to disassemble the belly plate. I drilled 1/8" holes, very slowly. Learn from my mistake iin this photo! The holes should be at the wide end of the lens/cover, not centered. The LED leads only have so much slack. Bend the connectors, slip the bulb through the lens and snap the lens in place, narrow end first.
This does make a difference in low light. Nice improvement for little effort.
Nice. I may try this with my older SV. Three of the gear shafts have worn their housing and the blades wobble when spinning. The craft shakes and is not stable in flight.
Yeah mine is getting pretty bad like that too. I’ve got one blade that’ll contact the frame at certain angles. It doesn’t hold position in Loiter very well anymore, but I can still manage Sport mode…actually I fly sport now more than anything. I’ll switch back to Loiter when I need to quickly recover from a maneuver.
Here is what I did with the antennas. It helps…a tiny amount. I still have a lot of disconnect issues though. I really don’t know why.
Been there, done that . . . wound up putting mine back to original. Didn’t see any noticeable difference and did have disconnect issues. I think SkyViper has the antenna dialed in.
The ultimate fix for my reception problems was fixing this parameter.
BRD_RADIO_TXMAX -> 8
It defaults to 4. I set it to 8 and now I can fly a long ways away…probably runs the battery out faster though.
Is the advantage of increased Tx range limited to Manual mode? When I fly Auto missions (Tower) the Tx connection can drop in and out but the missions seem to continue no problem, so far. Am I missing something?