FC and ESC all in one supported by Arducopter

I have experience with the Omnibus F4 Nano V6, a Kakute F7 AIO, a Kakute F7-Mini V2 and I just got a Matek H743-Mini today. The Omni Nano is getting long in the tooth so I put it in a Plane. I grew to dislike it in the 3" I built. The Kakute boards have performed great. The F7-Mini is in a 4" and that quad performs fantastic. I wouldn’t be building this new one with the Matek board if that 4" came in under 250g but it’s well over that. I built it before the FAA issued the decree.

This Matek H7 looks very impressive on paper, just flashing it now as I write this. I’m excited about building this 250g quad, I just hope it makes weight :grinning:

BTW-Flashing Ardupilot to this Matek H7 board was kind of pesky but got it going now.

Cool
Let me know how it goes. I have a 250 class frame that I want to convert to Arducopter. I don’t want to go Pixracer as there is limited space in the bird I am targeting so I am interested in how this goes.

Let me know how it goes. I have no clue how to do it but I don’t imagine it’s that hard.
Either way it looks very interesting. If it works for you let me know I will grab one.

Onen question why move to this board when the Kakute F7 mini V2 is just as small and works well for you. What does this give you the V2 doesn’t

I have a 250 5" with a PixRacer, it was the 1st small quad I built. It’s been pretty much bullet proof. But if I turn on all the cool stuff Dr. Piper has developed for us it get’s bogged down :grinning:

It’s an H7, next step up in processor power and it has 2Mb flash. Future proof is H7 for sure. Also the Kakute F7-mini doesn’t have an Sd card, matek Mini does (amazingly) .Internal flash works for logs but it’s still nice to have external memory. Who knows what other cool stuff will be cooked up!

For a 250 size frame I would probably go with the H743-Slim. A bit more space to work in, the 20x20 boards are very tight.

How did the flashing go

Completed it. It didn’t work the 1st time simply connecting in DFU mode and using iNav Configurator. But on the Matek website there are guidelines. I was on a different PC for this so I gave the ImpulseRC Driver Fixer a try and then it flashed with the latest Betaflight Configurator.

I just ordered one.
So is there any instructions to take this board from package to ARducopter. Some step by step document.

The Slim version ort Mini?

In general it’s the same as the Wing version. That’s why all versions share a common firmware target. So in that respect we have this:
https://ardupilot.org/copter/docs/common-matekh743-wing.html

I’ll be using Fport protocol from the Rx so there are some specific settings for that. There is a link in the above page if you need this. Other than that it’s like any other small build. Use the Tuning plug-in in Mission planner to set the initial values and be prepared to use the dynamic notch filter. If you have ESC telemetry that would be good.

You will also want some vibration isolation. The board comes with rubber standoff/grommets. I used the similar products that HoyBro supplied with the Kakute-Mini board and it worked well, so that’s the plan here too.

This one, you seemed to be excited about it and thats enough for me.
No clue what the Fport protocol is.
I am planning on ESC telemetry…all my builds use it now…it’s awesome.
The board has the standoffs so that shouldn’t be a problem. Whats unclear to me is the flashing.
But I can get to that when it arrives and I start the build.

Fport sends both RC control and telemetry over one wire. It’s not important here, lot’s of UARTS available.

I use a Kakute F7 AIO, works like a charm. I’ve made plenty of sub 250 and 150 g builds with it. PRGWhippet · prgumd/PRGFlyt Wiki · GitHub is a sub 250g build.

Hows that board working for you Dave, are you a happy camper
Oh one other question. Once mounted how high above the surface it’s mounted on is it. I mean to the top of the plugs or chips. I have a limited space project so curious about that, if you know that is.

Are they easy to setup. I am use to Pixhawk based FC’s.

Morning @rickyg32 -I won’t get the frame for this until sat or Monday so at present it’s just sitting on the bench being configured. But taking some dims I would say ~8 mm is the lowest profile. The grommets themselves barely give clearance for the connector and Sd card.On my build it will be mounted above a 4in1.

Regarding the Kakute F7, yes easy to configure and a nice board.Only downside, and it’s minor, is the I2C pads are very tiny and not in the best location.

Thanks Dave.
Sorry to say I might pester you when I go to flash it. I ordered the Matek H743-Mini so I am going that route. Thanks for the measurements. 8mm isn’t much which makes me happy.

@dkemxr
I meant to ask how is the heat on that board. My application is a tight space. No real ariflow.

I have only had it connected via USB so far so the BEC’s are not running. I had planned on starting the build this weekend but there appears to be some discrepancy in the spec for the 4in1 I bought. Websites, even Aikon’s own, says 2S-6S but the spec sheet that it came with shows 3S-6S. The plan is 2S. Vendor is finding out. This has happened to others with the Ori32 ESC. Annoying.

@andyp1per has done a lot of work with this FC, he would know.

Not really - just benchtesting

Andy any sign of heat when bench testing.

It gets warm, but they all do to some extent. I find the main heat generators are the RunCam PCB’s

super thank you
I was hoping that was the answer.