Constant unhealthy battery warning

I’ve been trying to configure and setup an OrqaH7 quad core flight controller. I have tried two separate flight controllers, both measured at a voltage 5V lowers than the reported voltage in Mission Planner with the settings described in the GitHub page for the OrqaH7. Normally I would use a TBS Lucid H7 and I’ve not had issues with it.

I’ve used the Methodic configurator twice to setup two Orqa H7s and got to a point (with the first flight controller) where if I disabled the the pre-arm checks I could switch into acro mode, arm, disarm, then switch back into stabilize and rearm despite getting the warning (even after disabling pre-arm battery checks). While a separate issue, after I tuned it and connected it back the the configurator to continue the steps, I ended with a worse tune than my first several flights in stabilize and altitude hold. Experienced severe and noticeable oscillations to the point where the drone just puts itself into LAND mode.

At a lost on what to do, any suggestions would be welcome along with any requirements of what I could post to help assist in debugging this issue.

Post the .zip file that you get when you press the respective button at the bottom of the AMC interface.

Hi @IntergalacticBobtoe,

Re the battery voltage being incorrect, if you’re using Mission Planner then you can input the measured voltage and it will correct the BATT_VOLT_MULT parameter which is used to convert the voltage coming into the autopilot to the actual voltage of the battery. Alternatively you could just adjust that parameter directly until you get it right.

The relevant wiki page is here.

I did actually do this and typed in the measured voltage. The unhealthy battery warnings persisted between several batteries I tested. I am wondering if the voltage and current sensors aren’t working properly. I have a few of the orqa H7s, one I flashed with v4.7 and another with v4.6 just to see if I got the same warning (which I did). If the third gets the same result, then I’m assuming it’s operator error somewhere on my part… but I haven’t had this issue with a previous tbs lucid H7 using v4.6.

Hi @IntergalacticBobtoe,

We really need to see an onboard log. As we say, it’s all guesswork without a log

Jus press the button and post the .zip file here:

And post a .bin file as well so that we can help you.

Late reply, but I think I was able to figure out what happened during my initial flight. I accidentally overwrote one of the notch filters settings and rates somehow. Anyways, it gave me a chance to go step-by-step again through the AMC and while I don’t 100% understand everything it was better. I’ve calibrated the voltage and current with a power meter as shown in the docs and now the battery levels reported in MP are more accurate.

I am still getting the “Bad Battery” message appearing in mission planner and OSD when attempting to arm. On a second arm attempt it will actually arm despite the message. Attaching the zip file.

I’m also attaching what I think was one of the flights with the pids produced by the process (unfortunately a lot of test flights, not careful tracking, and having to roll back the pids). The final tune had some bounciness in my pitch and roll. I noticed a very minor wobble for a couple of seconds after performing exaggerated movements. I’m assuming I need to go back and maybe change the notch filter settings and lower the PID rates, because there may have been to much oscillation/vibration from where I started with the rates that possibly propogated forward throughout the process.

I’m more interested in figuring out the “Bad Battery” message as I can always retune and better understand the process. Thank you.

AMC ZIP

BIN FILE

What parts/steps/parameters did you not understant?
If you ask, we explain.

Out of my own ignorance of the subject, it is the notch filter process and using the webtool to adjust it. I need to sit down and go through the video linked in the AMC hyperlinks and ArduPilot docs. I’ve just not had a moment to prioritize it. I was not referring to the AMC if that was the confusion on my comment. The AMC is actually quite clear on what to do and where to find the information. Shoutout to you and the community for the work and effort put into developing it.

For that specific step the video and the linked documentation should answer most questions.

If something is unclear, ask.

I’ve been thinking for some time that our harmonic notch wiki pages (here and here I guess) are far too complicated or at least require a better summary of the process at the top.

I think this page has a better summary of the process but it’s in the wrong section of the wiki.

I’ve created a wiki to-do item so hopefully we can improve the docs.

I think we should clearly tell the users to prioritize ESC RPM telemetry notch over throttle notch over FFT notch. And then explain each one in that order as well.

I’ll try to put a PR together soon.

Here it is @hwurzburg can you take a look at it?

please can you add an explaination of Phase Lag with examples of what is good / bad or maybe what is better / worse than a specific example.

You want phase lag to be as small as possible. Smaller is better. The WebTool “Filter review” has a phase lag vs frequency graph. Let phase lag be as small as possible while keeping the post filter noise below -50dB

I am familiar with the graph in the filter review tool.

You’ve just said that the graph is of Phase lag vs frequency which is helpful but the axis is labeled just phase and frequency. I think that to someone who isnt as learned in the matters as you are, (like me) it isnt clear from the documentation what making phase lag smaller actually means. Is it reducing the absolute value of phase, reducing the peak to peak values, is it better to have the peaks at a lower frequency, is having a positive phase value bad etc. This is why i think a paragraph in the wiki page on notch filtering explaining the prinicipals of phase lag would be very helpful. Just my two cents

@alexanderever very good points. Thanks for raising them.

  1. Phase should be as small as possible across all frequencies.
  2. If the Phase reaches -180° then it should reach it at a frequency that is as high as possible.
    In other words, reaching -180° for the first time at 30Hz is worse than reaching -180° for the first time at 40Hz.

That’s it in a nutshell