Right now the throttle is on the collective with the throttle curve as conventional RC setups are. The throttle hold switch turns it on or off as per conventional RC setup. The governor depends on that. Instead of a switch could put the throttle hold on a knob, but it wouldn’t be like a full size twist grip because the throttle is either on or off on channel 8.
The governor is now merged in master. If you want to fly it on 3.6 you can get it here->
I flew a new Bell 505 about a month ago and they eliminated the throttle twist grip in the 505. The Turbomeca (Safran) engine has a new dual-channel FADEC and they have a two-position switch for idle and flight power. It’s strange if you’re used to a 206. Amazingly, with that new dual-channel FADEC the engine can be started at either idle or flight throttle. And it can be shut down hot and immediately restart it without danger of over-temping it. It was different, that’s for sure. But it’s kinda like RC ones.
This older hardware evidently has something that doesn’t play nice with ChibiOS. I have three other helicopters with CUAV V3x controllers and those have no problems at all. But this one has been problematic with logging. Sometimes had to reboot it a couple or three times to get rid of the Bad Logging. Then take off and 4 or 5 minutes into the flight it suddenly triggers Bad Logging with a CRITICAL: no IO thread heartbeat message. I tried different SD cards in it and thought I had it fixed. But when there’s stuff like that that suddenly fails in flight I should’ve realized other things can probably go wrong too. I flew it enough on the NuttX build to be confident that it’s happy. And the NuttX build for PX4-V3 (will run fine on a Pixhawk Cube) is now available for the ArduHeli build with the governor.
I can manage very few autos without getting some run-on with these heavy helicopters. Only maybe if I got a 10-12 kt wind or something. The ground usually arrives before I get it stopped. If I strip the helicopter down, get rid of the cargo hook bar, belly tank, payload etc then it floats pretty good and don’t want to come home. But its generally safer to just run it on and don’t risk banging the tail rotor in the dirt.
When I replaced the front strut on the one that got bent I shortened it a bit to give the helicopter 3 degrees of rake in a nose-down attitude sitting on the gear. That will allow the rear of the skids to touch down first. Can’t do that with a full-size but with RC you can. This gear slides over rough terrain pretty good and won’t dig in and nose the heli over. Plus gives it 8 1/2" of tail rotor clearance, even with the 12" diameter tail rotor on it. I got three of these, and I’m going to make the same change to the other two.
It was the gear that saved this one from my bad landing. If the gear can’t crush and absorb energy in a hard landing the helicopter will bounce and tip over. The gear stance is 15" and that helps on rough terrain too. In a hard landing the gear will spread and fold back to keep the helicopter upright. Aluminum is easily repairable and has the ability to deform when it’s load limit is reached without springing back and causing it to tip over. I was quite pleased with the performance of the landing gear - it did what I designed it to without damaging the helicopter.